914 World Brain-Trust -

I'm an old wrench who is experienced in top-end rebuilds without removing the engine - especially on motorcycles.

Can a top-end rebuild be done on a 914 without removing the engine? As the heads & cylinders are air-cooled, it certainly seems possible to me. I haven't found anywhere here where it is discussed.

If so, is it recommended?

I'd sure like to do one on my sweet '76 2.0, but not if the engine has to be removed.

TIA,

GN

You might be able to, but it's an hour to drop the motor out, save your back put it on a stand

Not worth it.
Engine drop is easy, and the job will be MUCH easier with the engine out.
I did my first engine drop 20 years ago using the threaded rod on all 4 points down to a furniture dolly. Took me 3 hours alone. And that was doing it the hard way. Get a harbor freight ATV jack for under $100, build some solid wheel cribs out of 2x4's, and it would be a breeze. Mine is up on wheel cribs right now, and with an ATV jack, I could have the engine rolled out in probably an hour.

I'm not sure you could get the heads off the studs because of the body/suspension mount. But even if you could there is not way it would be worth it, too much stuff to come off that is much harder to do in the engine compartment.

The engine and trans come out as a unit and it is pretty easy to do and once it is out, pulling heads and cylinders is pretty easy.

Jim

To all -

Got the msg. loud & clear! Forgot to say I have a full shop w/lift, and glad to hear dropping the engine/transaxle are so easy.......

And yes - it will be so easy to work on on an engine stand!

Thanks!

GN

With a lift it’s 45 minutes or less.

Remember to remove the transmission grounding strap under the trunk.

You would have to drop the engine about 6 inches, may as well take it out.

I have a two post lift and a HF scissor lift table, makes dropping a 914, 911 996 etc engine and tranny a snap. I used to use a roll around table.
911, 996, 997 engines I R&R fully dressed with exhaust on, 914 it's easier to install the exhaust after.

Boy! If you could loan me that table for a month or so, that would be great!

Thanks for the tip! My lift is 10,000 lb. asymmetrical......how did I ever live without it?

GN

Thanks! Critical & easily forgettable item, I'm sure! And I'd be the one to forget it!

GN

Steve -

Have a garage full of motorcycles, bike lifts, bike lift table, and more, plus lots of 4x4 & 6x6 cribbing.......piece of cake!

Thanks for the wisdom and guidance......

GN

Our shop has at least 6 of the harbour freight tables. They work well for engine drops and installs. Seem to last for years.

It's similar to the table below, 650lbs lift, I got it on sale for about $200.
I also made a bolt on transmission stand for it.

My tranny jack/lift table.

Yup - Harbor Freight motorcycle lift table is perfect - that's what I'll be using......

GN

Mark - Nice. Yup - need something? Weld it up........

Decades ago I came up with this:

"You know why welding is my favorite hobby?

#1 - You don't gotta wait for the glue to dry. (I'm an impatient kind of guy....)

#2 - When you screw up - which I frequently do - you just pull out the cutting torch and grinder - AND NOBODY KNOWS!" Unlimited do-overs are free!

GN

See the weld 2/3 the way up the tranny stand post?
I made the stand too tall first time around.

or you could RAISE the car with your lift. Leaving the engine on any cart of the correct capacity.

LOTS OF VIDEOS...

Yes, like I said that's how I used to do it, but I like the fine control of the lift table for the final positioning.