Well I have been delayed with life and too many things going on. But after purchasing a lot of parts, it is time to start the process.

Up front big thanks to Charles and Nicole at the Type 4 Store for putting up with so many questions. Thanks to Len Hoffman for waiting on me for so long on the heads. Also to Jake Raby for his Type 4 build CD and while not giving build advice but pointing me in the right direction on a number of issues. I am afraid to look at all of the other vendor receipts as I might start to add it all up $$$$ but I will compile a list of all the vendors and add photos.

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So the basics. Going for a 2.6 L FI with Microsquirt. Looking to hit 9.5:1 compression.

102 mm Nickies with Custom 102mm Dished JE Pistons for 78mm stroke and 22mm pins.

78 mm crank - New this time!

H-beam Rods 5.325 with Type 1 Rod Journals

LE-200 heads - Valve sizes: 44mm x 38mm by Manley, intake ports flow 200CFM @ .500” valve lift, and ceramic coated. 911 swivel foot valve adjusters

SPEC Clutch Kit - Stage 1 Lightened flywheel

Type 4 Store Cam Part# 9500 with Parkerized Lifters and Modified Cam Gear,
chromoly pushrods
Intake
Valve Lift: .500
Duration: 284
Duration@ .050": 250

Exhaust
Valve Lift: .500
Duration: 300
Duration@ .050": 270

Mahle bearings throughout

315cc/min Fuel Injector: Bosch 0280150945

48 mm CB Performance intakes. Dual throttle bodies with CSP linkage

Modified 30mm Oil Pump

Racewear Case thru-Stud Kit and Head Stud Kit

Tangerine Racing Remote Oil Cooler Kit

Planning on Tangerine Racing 1 1/2" Street System: - High Temp coated header with EVO II Silencer

Case and all the parts are going to shop Friday for opening up to fit the 102s and balancing of all parts.

Goal is to be done by Okteenerfest!

May have potential to be evil?

Thoughts suggestions?

Not trying to drudge up old memories but im trying to learn from your experiences


Can you talk about what road you went this time vs your last type 4 .

You dont have to tell me your goals with these motors
I can tell its to haul ass and i appreciate you staying
Loyal to the /4 cause im sure this one cost
/6 comversion money . amd that /6 has been hard to resist

You forgot what you're controlling this with, stock FI?

Was not really clear but going for a 2.6 L FI with Microsquirt for fuel injection control.

What happened with your 2056?

Zach

I am a fan of the 4. I know I have spent more money on this than a 6 conversion but the 4 is what I love.

Overall, I have always felt there was more in the 4 than most gave it credit for. The advance in technology regarding FI and engine components (Nickies and Lens heads) has made it possible to get that performance without building an engine that is a bomb waiting to explode.

I broke a 78mm crank on my last engine. It was a 2.3 with 98mm brial cylinders and Mahle pistons with a great set of big valve heads which were ported. On a very poor tune this put 115hp to the wheels. It was really fun to drive and there was still more there. I still have the components if anyone wants to go big 4 for a lower cost.

So this is just the next level. This will be my last one to build so I am going all out.
I think the last build was a great compromise between spending the 6 money and building a reasonably high HP 4. The build is what compromised the crank. Hard to survive when a bearing is installed incorrectly! Bad things happen!

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So same basic road with higher quality parts and a much more matched set of components.

Sent to Germany!

I can't imagine that it lasted very long... Live and learn. This next build will go better with more attention being paid. I hope. Good luck!

Not my mistake but certainly a learning experience.

Hi Mike,
Welcome to the big motors , Nice list of parts , do you plan on having the bearings
coated , calico coatings not to far away , I have had good success with them,
I might be wrong but with that parts list , I feel you should go 1 3/4 on the exhaust
system , let that that BIG motor breathe , I run the 1 7/8 system on my 2.8-4 ,
I'm assuming that the cam will have a reduced base circle
(rod to cam clearance with that stoke & bigger rod journal ) just a heads up ?,
Good luck & I'll be lookingforward to seeing it at Okteenerfest , Bill D.

Gonna be a monster motor.. I would love to develop an exhaust for something like that.

Yes you are correct on the exhaust. Chris Foley had already set me straight on the exhaust size. Not familiar with the coating of bearings. Tell me more.

Basically you will have the same engine I have in my '67 bug.

102mm nickies, JE pistons with valve pockets and extra pin oiling holes., ARP case and head studs.
78mm DPR crank
CB 5.4 rods
web cam
914heads, modified by me, unshrouded 44mmX38mm SS valves, dual springs, CrMo retainers and keepers, etc...
SDS FI with 55lb Siemens injectors
46mm ITB's, modified GSXR
1-3/4" A1 header for T4 into bug conversion.


BTW I have a tangerine 914, 1-7/8" header/muffler hanging on my wall.

You will have a hard time getting 9.5:1, big chambers, best I could do with a .040" deck was 9.2:1 CR or it maybe it was 9.3, but I couldn't get 9.5CR.

Len is going to modify my heads to get the correct compression.

Mike
Are you going with the one piece crankshaft design this time around?

The two piece arrangement did not fair very well. But the reality is that the improper installation of the bearing is what caused the crank to fail. it was apparent that the bearing was not in place and then the case was tightened down. I am sure it would not turn so they opened it up and only repositioned the bearing instead of replacing it. Small thing but after time it resulted in a broken crank.

Went with the forged crank.

If you dont mind me asking who is they?
Who compromised the bearing/crank/motor

Prefer not to post anything that I was not there to confirm. The engine had a couple of revisions so I am not going to call out anyone unless I was there to confirm.

That has to be one bad bug!

It's a performance coating for bearings , piston skirts, piston tops,
It might be (would be) a worthwhile investment with this motor ,
have your bearings coated , piston tops coated & skirts recoated (better quality
coating) I believe Len recommends having the heads (chambers & valves) done ,
I hope this helps Bill D.

PS who is doing your timesert install for your cylinder studs ? if your doing it ,let
me know I have some tools that I made to help install them below the surface,

bearings - CT-1
piston skirts - CT-3
piston tops - CT-2

www.calicocoatings.com/coatings/

Contacted them. I like this tech?

+1 on Calico Coatings! Did this on a 3.5 930 engine build.

Bill Set me straight on the RaceWare head studs. I saw they cam with Timecerts but thought they were optional? Because I am sticking with relatively low compression I was going to just use the standard bolt holes.

Contacted Calico but nothing yet.

If you're looking for some other options...

SwainTech also is known for excellent engine coatings work. Website sucks though.

Hekimian Racing does a good amount of coatings work as I understand it. Never used them for coatings, but have used them extensively for cryoing parts (mostly bike transmission) and I would imagine they do good coatings work too. Gregg is awesome and a wealth of knowledge. Another crappy website.

Might be worth cryoing your crank and perhaps some other parts. Not too expensive and people have had good results. A while ago I read on shoptalk that Jake was cryoing parts in ~75% of his big motors.

you mentioned some of your old components for sale?

whatcha got? I especially looking for heads and valves I can use.

Got 2 big valve heads, ported, dual springs, and opened up to fit 98mm jugs. Have one good stock 2.0 and complete set of new valves.

Sent you a PM

Not much progress. Still waiting on machine shop. But did get to install my SpokeWorks LED lights. Super easy install and fit perfectly!

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Well more good news! Shop called and they will get to my stuff next week.

Bill,

On the Timesert install, I have the RaceWare install tool but I don't think it does anything for ensuring that it is flush.

Supposedly no machining is required. I have not tried to install them but it does seem like the lip on top will prevent a flush install.

What are the tools you are referring to?

It's just a 1/2 ball mill (for making recess c'bore / in slo-mo hand drill )
a bolt (matches threads on studs/ coarse end )
a nut with part of the hex turned down dia. smaller then the timesert shoulder
plus a tap for chasing thread (makes easier install )

the tool that comes with the studs & serts is for locking the serts in once you bury
them . it spreads the bottom of the serts so they don't back out . one at time you
bury it , if it's good then remove put loctite then rebury it ,then use tool that comes
with the serts , I hope this helps Bill D.

ps let me know if you decide to do yourself, I'll send you the tools


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Very smart! I don't have the ball mill but is a cheap purchase. I can make up a similar bolt assuming there is nothing special about the nut on the end? But don't have the tap. Not sure what the stock bolts thread size and pattern are but can likely find or use a stock bolt from the back side to clean the threads.

Great insight! Will let you know if I cant put together or if it turns out to be more costly than I expect.

Well still waiting on the machine shop.

Making some progress. Got the cam gear on and prepped up my new = UK made (Jonesy) oil sump and temp sender cover. As a quick note, I was unable to get any conductivity due to the coating on the oil temp cover. Cleaned the threads of the coating and sanded a small spot on the inside of the cover near the bolt holes to be sure the sender could reach ground.

Mocked up my CFR oil coiler. Really nice stuff from Chris Foley. I was running AN 8 lines on old cooler but going to AN 10 seems like a huge increase in size. The built in thermostat in this is just amazing and Chris even provides a flap to block off air flow to the stock oi cooler location. Seems like this should help head temps as well. l

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double

Well finally got my case back from shop.
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Have some substantial 102 mm holes that Nickies fit into nicely.
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Let the build begin.

awesome! looking good,
you've go less than 3 months to get that thing back in your car and down the road! now lets see some assembly!!

GO MIKE, GO MIKE, GO MIKE!!! You can DO it!!!

Bigger...the 102 uses the standard 103mm cylinder size bore. I didn't see the need for timeserts/casesavers but with the ARP headstuds you would be wise to run a thread reforming tap through them.

Yes I was just test fitting them. Followed Bills direction on the method for getting the Time Certs to sit flush. Apparently the ARP bolts are smaller than stock and use an insert.

Quick question. Is there a need for a gasket between the case and the cylinder and where to get them?

Len is going to cut my heads to get the correct compression ratio. Was going to check the deck height but just thought I might need a gasket.

Finally back in the country! Now for building!

Got the case time certs installed last night. Thanks to Bill's guidance it went perfectly.

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the Raceware head studs are expensive but quality for sure.

Will build the crank tonight!

Was making progress! Got the gears on the crank and was ready to add the rods.
Something did not seem right. A quick check of sizes indicated 55mm
rods = Type 1

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but a 50mm crank = stock 2.0L

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5mm is likely too much tolerance in rod bearings!

Crank was suppose to be Type 1 journals. Have already balanced all of the components.

Hopefully can just get new rods.

Well not a lot of progress as of late. Still sorting out the rod issue but Charles at the Type 4 Store has been great in working with me on the issue!

Really have to thank Len Hoffman. He is fast tracking my heads at the ceramic coater so I can get them by Aug 9. Cant wait to see the LE-200 heads with the coating done. Combined with the Tangerine Racing 1-3/4 headers and Evo Muffler it ought to breath well!

He is setting them up with a 1mm step so with zero deck height in the jugs I will be at 9.99:1 compression. Everyone likely says NO on the deck zero height but the pistons have valve cut outs that should allow for clearance. I will check of course!

As long as the pistons are not sticking out of the jugs I should not need any cylinder shims.

If needed, I can add as much as .5mm (0.02 in) deck height and only reduce the compression to 9.5:1.

I have ordered those shims just in case!

Moving forward. Man Nickies are beautiful.


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Clark this is for you.

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Went through the mock up process all things seem to rotate and be clear. I felt I had a couple of points on the crank to case clearance that were a bit tight so I took a bit more off the case to provide clearance.

Checked deck height at 0.43 mm which with the 1 mm step the wise Len Hoffman machined into my heads will give me about a 9.5:1 compression ratio.

The heads will be here Wednesday!

Taking everything back apart for final inspection and cleaning for final assembly.

Of course I forgot that the gasket set does not come with the windage tray seal so I had to order one. I heard of people leaving them out completely any thoughts on that?

Should start final assembly this weekend!

You and I are in a competition to see who can get closest to Okteenerfest to get their car running.

What Mental stage is yours in?

Got a nice little package from Mr. Hoffman today!

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Nice LE-200 heads with ceramic!