Counting up all the things to order while i have it off for a new TO Bearing.

I found this. The stud pulled right out. Thoughts on repair?

Click to view attachment

JB Weld??? lol, some people...

I'm a big fan of TimeSerts.

https://www.amazon.com/Time-Sert-M8x1-25-th...2/dp/B01MSPN7NH

Helicoil may be more locally accessible.

Timecert (or other solid insert like an EZLock) for sure. Much nicer than wound wire stuff like Helicoils when you have the space.

Also possible would be a stepped stud. tap for bigger end.

Any of the listed inserts above will work.

But I would recommend that you measure the depth of the hole, and when you drill it out for the insert, wrap some tape around your drill bit as a stop. It is really easy to drill all the way through and end up with a gear oil leak.

Thanks. To let future readers know… the threads are M6 x 1.0. I found a stainless steel ez lock kit on amazon. $23. I’ll have spares that i’ll never use. Oh well better than j b weld.

Thought they were larger....nevermind,rethread to new metric size carefully as mentioned,tap the hole and get an engineering shop to machine a stepped stud which is an easy job.
You need to be carefully doing this,the retapped hole needs to be square to the bellhousing otherwise the guide tube could be off centre.
A wee lick of Loctite won't hurt on the new stub ,DON"T overtighten.

Also remember the exact height of the ball pivot is important. If the flywheel is machined to the max the ball pivot stud needs to be shimmed out to get the correct throw out arm geometry. I would attempt to measure the installed height. I hav a trans case and can measure that for you if needed.
Bruce

Since my plan is to keep the current FW, i would like to know about the geometry. So you wouldn’t measure thickness of the flywheel as well?

Please do Bruce, Thanks

I had to shim mine due to the flywheel being refaced,only measurements I found was for the 6cyl flywheel,mine came in spec (thankfully) but the shim (1mm) helped.

As the flywheel is machined the pressure plate sits deeper into the flywheel and moves away from the throw out arm. This changes the geometry between the throw out arm and pressure plate and transmission case. Shimming the ball moves the throw out arm toward the pressure plat again, correcting the geometry.
So you really only need to shim the ball that same amount as is removed from the flywheel.
When Trans is installed the throw out arm should be pushed by the throw out bearing/pressure plate most of the way forward in the opening in the bell housing. If the flywheel is machined and the ball not shimmed the throw out arm runs out of travel when the clutch cable pulls on it because it hit the back of the opening in the bell housing.

I don' recall seeing any measurements or specification for the ball height.
The 6 flywheel spec work for the 4 flywheel as well.
Machine shops should know this but not all do, the surface that the pressure plate bolts up to has to be machined the same amount as the wear surface of the flywheel to keep the pressure plate working correctly.

Jim

Well damn. The 6m kit arrived today. Once i scraped out all the jab weld i determined that the kit was not gonna cut it. Might still need the ez lok but forcthe m8. I did find a m8 x m6 step stud that might do the trick. Fingers crossed.

dp