Pulled the seats to work on the windshield & found this under the passenger seat.
I have carbs, no FI.
Don't have a center console.
Some wires so corroded they broke off. Others not connected, Some cut.
Any direction to a schematic showing what all these are for would be greatly appreciated.

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It's already been jumped. Nothing to do. The old seatbelt interlock system.

At this stage you only care about the big yellow wires that are connected together. That bypasses the seatbelt interlock system.

There is one more wire in there that you care about. It is power from the same circuit that runs the ignition. If it grounds, the car dies. I prefer to disconnect (cut) it at the fuse box.

You also need to do some work on that if you want your interior light to work correctly.

....And I believe the oil pressure sender wire connects at that block to the wire that goes to the gauge.

I'm pretty sure that wire comes through the firewall with everything else and just runs straight up the tunnel, along with the alternator warning light wire and the oil temp wire which ends at the plug just behind the shift lever if you don't have a temp gauge.

My interior light has never worked. I pulled the back pad & those wires (brown) run down the firewall into the tunnel. Looking at that electrical block, does it require any relay module to be plugged in to engage other functions? My car is a '74, would the wiring connections be the same on a '75? I have a '75 I can pull the seat to compare.

My oil pressure light works, on the gauge in the dash. I don't have a temp gauge.

That contains the seat belt logic starter cut relay (missing and bypassed in your pic), the warning buzzer, and rear defroster relay (if equipped).

The brown wires that run from that harness are the back pad light (should be 3-4 wires to two connectors on one side and a single brown wire on the other), the parking brake switch, and the ground for the rear defroster. The power for the rear defroster is the big green wire behind the back pad.

There is no effect to unplugging that relay if the two fat yellow/yellow-red wires have been spliced together.

What everyone else is primarily talking about is things that could go wrong if you cut the rest of the wires going to the socket. Either that, or if something damages a wire and shorts it to ground.

(Ironic that Clay is the one warning of "shorts". )

--DD

Whatever you do, please don't cut any more wires.

Tape up anything that looks like it may be able to short out, there's no need to cut anything.

There is no rear defroster relay at this location, that is on the relay board with the voltage regulator for every model year 914.

I didn't cut any wires, just removed the seat and found this mess and thought they must go to something; obviously not. I'll insulate the ends of all the bare ones, tuck them back in and move on to the next chore. Thanks for all the info.

Jim