I've gone though this about a hundred times now revisiting it every few days and I still can't get it to function.

When I disconnect the cable from the catch it moves freely when you pull the handle in the car. But when connected no amount of pulling will release the catch.

The catch is well lubed and moves freely when the springs are removed and can be activated by hand when the springs are installed - although it does require a strong thumb to move the lever.

Any ideas welcome before I do something I regret

Lube the pull handle in the car. Lube the cable in the while tube with oil, not grease. Make sure enough slack has been removed in the cable so when you pull on it, it actuates the latch fully.

Did you use a new white cable housing. Some of the new ones are too soft and collapse when pulled.

Yours looks pretty clear so it might be one of the newer ones that doesn't work so well.

@defianty

could be under too much tension once the hood is closed.
If you have someone gently (don't dent it) push down on the hood on both sides near the headlights while you are pulling the handle, does it release?

Rich

Thanks for that. I haven't added any lube to the cable but I'll look at that next.

What you've said about the cable housing could be an issue or at least a contributing factor. It is a new 914Rubber housing. Bought as my original had split in a couple of places. When you pull the handle hard it does start to compress and go wavy.

I may have to consider another cable housing. Doesn't anyone know of a source? Have 914rubber improved theirs?

I've not actually attached the hood yet Rich. In fact it's still in storage at the paint shop.

I've tried to emulate having the on my attaching the latch and holding it under pressure whilst someone else pulls the handle. I wondered if it needed that to operate but I don't think so.

interesting...but it actually might.
Try pulling up on where the catch would be when you pull the handle to simulate the spring.
when you pull the handle, the hood "pops" open.

Yeah tried that too adding pressure in both directions. However I will try again to double check when I can get someone to give me a hand again later this evening.

unless you are building a concourse queen, I would suggest you add another cable also
I route one out into the drivers side inner fender well.
We do this on all the 356 too

just route it out there and put a loop on it, hoping you never need it.
Pull with vice grips the day you do need it.

Very discreet, unless you look
It would be way up near the blinker bucket, but low enough down to get your hand on it.

Quote from 914rubber a couple years ago -

“I do make these. One thing that is often missed with these, is that they MUST be held down. the factory made little metal tabs to hold these in place. the cable will cause the plastic tube to will flex (it's flexible plastic after all). The purpose of tying it to the body is to give it points that can't flex. So make sure you use the factory mount points to hold it down. It will make it work as designed. The tube is only to provide a barrier that he cable can slide in.”

FYI

I strongly suggest you install a safety pull switch like i did on my 914 during restoration before installing my hood. I have a pull wire going under the headlight for an emergency pull if needed

Notice the (yellow) pull knob
It's a ceramic 914 car molding gifted to me by a 914 friend. Hidden from view, but I know it's there

Tom

Thanks for that Mark. I think that was the key to this. I pressed down all of the tabs as hard as I dared and it now works. Still tough to pull but it works. Cheers.

Thank for the alternative suggestions. I think I'll look into something similar down the road.

Thanks 914world.

Make sure the cable is lubed. It makes a big difference.

After trying all the other help detailed herein I must also add that you may not have sufficient pull length within the handle in the car. Make sure the cable within it's plastic tubing sheath is tied down within the car first. If it still is not opening remove the stop screw within the handle in the car. Pull until it opens. The T handle may come out of the receiver. Be careful not to damage the cable in this process. I had the same issue and was able to open the trunk with this method. Solution then is to shorten the cable in the trunk area.

After trying all the other help detailed herein I must also add that you may not have sufficient pull length within the handle in the car. Make sure the cable within it's plastic tubing sheath is tied down within the car first. If it still is not opening remove the stop screw within the handle in the car. Pull until it opens. The T handle may come out of the receiver. Be careful not to damage the cable in this process. I had the same issue and was able to open the trunk with this method. Solution then is to shorten the cable in the trunk area.

AFAIK there are two types. One with two springs and one with one spring. The second spring pulls the cable back after pulling the knob. Also lubing the cable was a big help in getting the cable to go back after being pulled. Make sure there are no kinks in the sheath.

Question: Does 914rubber product employee the same rigid plastic sheathing? I'm guessing it does as he did not suggest adding any clamps. Rigidity is key to cable actuated mechanisms be it heater, trunk and shifter cables. You can also wrap a SS safety wire around the mechanism and hide it behind the bumper. I made a loop at the end with a bit of hose to protect my finger when pulling.

After playing with it a bit more it wouldn't open again without a serious pull on the handle. It's almost dinner time here in the UK so I'll try again tomorrow by taking it all out and lubricating the cable and looking at any adjustment at the handle again.

Thanks again guys. I've been in the garage all day and only managed to install the fog lights

IIRC, the pull assembly has a screw in the shaft. If too tight, it can add friction and make the pull seem harder. The pull handle assembly needs to be release so the screw is visable.

To lube the cable, Do not remove the housing. Loosen the set screw at the font latch. Bend the wire straight. Pull release handle from the cabin until just a foot or two of wire remains in the housing. Use a teflon oil like you would use for a bike chain. WD-40 is not lube. Drip a couple drops into the tube by the front latch to lube the last 2 feet of housing. Reinstall. Should take 5 minutes total. It will make a noticable difference.

For the engine release cable, you can just lube it in place and let gravity take care of the rest.

The tie down is important I see that others have mentioned.
We use the same materials factory did only ours are 40 years + newer so yes they seem more flexable. It works well as long as routes correctly and tabs are holding it down. Check the routing through the headlight bucket area.

Once route is confirmed, check the action of the latch installed in place. Make sure the clamp ant the latch is holding the cable sheath securely. Without latching the hood you should be able to pull on the end of the cable to minimize slack at the latch. Push the latch to the closed position. When the cable is pulled the latch should release without the hood closed easily.
You fan use a helper to see exactly what the issue is. This is how I determined I had not routed the cable correctly under the light bucket.

I suspect you may have the same issue here.

It's a pretty simple system but the little details will compromise the ability for it to work correctly. I was surprised it was this finicky, but yes it makes a difference.


Mark

Thanks for your input Mark. I've not had a look at this again yet. I felt a bit burnt out from the car yesterday so decided to take a break for a couple of days. I think I've got plenty of info from the group to troubleshoot this now.

Good plan. No need to beat yourself. Sometimes things are more clear when you can take a step back and regroup.