Right rear brake looks to have locked up after a recent caliper rebuild (less than 50 miles). I followed a pelican article and loosened the hex by going clockwise...wouldn’t twist counter. Brake pads look like they are glued to the rotor though...if anyone is in Phoenix area, there’s a six pack for anyone wanting to come to the garage and help me get the car on the road.

Did you set the gap originally?

Are the parking brake cables moving freely and not keeping tension on the caliper?

Is the brake pedal returning all the way (can you pull up on it?)

Thanks Chi-Town. Autobahn Garage rebuilt the calipers, so I did not set the gap. Can’t really tell about the brake cables, but the brake pedal is all the way up. I am trying to get the piston to return to the housing, but don’t know how far to turn the adjuster clockwise. Pads looked glued to the rotors at this point and rotor will not turn by hand.

Ok, there's an adjuster on both pistons in each caliper. Removed both caps (need to go through the hole in the trailing arm for the inside one) and unscrew the adjuster till you see the pad start to move back towards the caliper. Some times you have to push a little on the pad while turning the adjuster.

Once you get them backed off then you can set the correct gap.

Does the caliper need to be removed in order to loosen the inner adjuster?

No, you'll need an Allen key socket and a 10-12" extension

Local shop thinks it’s an issue with the parking brake. Anyone know someone in Phoenix that can work on this with me?

Should be obvious if the parking brake is on. You can see the cable where it attaches to the caliper. Is it slack or taut? Once you see where it connects you’ll be able to tell how to disconnect or loosen the cable.

Simply pull the little pin out at the connection from the cable to the caliper.

If the cable is stuck the caliper will release when the pin is pulled

This sounds incredibly simple, but any pictures or diagrams of what pin I’m supposed to pull?

The pin that connects the end of the ebrale cable to the ebrake lever arm on the caliper. It has a tiny c-clip on the end. On the east coast they are always corroded over so I get them cherry red with map gas and then work it loose.

Trying to take the pads out. Tried using a screwdriver, but not wiggling at all. Any suggestions?

Got one pad out, but no luck on the inner. Rotor still won’t rotate...any thoughts?

After tapping the arm I was able to get the rotor to rotate and remove the inner brake pad. Everything looks clean.

Did you check the parking brake cable yet? BTW, those calipers don’t look rebuilt to me. I’m not even sure they are rebuildable with all that corrosion.

I agree with Robert. If the pads do not slip in and out of the pad cavity easily, then essentially the pads are seized. The pad cavity needs to be cleaned and coated to prevent corrosion and this sort of problem. Just putting new seals in the piston bores is NOT a rebuild. If the external surfaces of the caliper have not been cleaned, then the internal surfaces are probably at least as bad. That will just lead to continuing problems.
PMB does a full restoration job including new plating. That's a ticket to ride.

Thanks. Car is now at Exotic Motorwerks in Scottsdale. Hope they can give me an honest assessment of condition and what needs to be done to get it on the road.

Decent calipers. PMB Performance https://www.pmbperformance.com/914-brakes.html