I found both these topics on this forum, but just have a couple of clarification questions:

First the throttle cable replacement. How does one "pop" the ball joint form the accelerator pedal. I tried pushing on it, but should I just use pliers or hit it with a hammer and punch? It looks delicate so I don't want to break anything.

Second; to drop the steering rack do I have to remove the master cylinder first or is there a way to go side ways (toward passenger side) to remove the rack (rod to cabin is still attached unless there is a way to remove it with the steering rack still in the car)? The rest of the front suspension is off except for the support bar.

Throttle cable- Use a 8mm wrench on the nut under the ball cup and and turn it like you're trying to tighten it, it will pop off

To drop the steering rack you do not have to remove the master cylinder.
Remove the bolt from the u-joint inside the car, Mark the position with a marker/paint
Remove the bracket holding the bushing under the fuel tank
Loosen the two bolts at the front of the control arms but do not remove them.
Remove the two rack bolts
Remove the bolt at the back of the control arm while supporting the crossmember. Lower to gain access for the next step
Remove 17mm bolt from inner tie rods, and remove tie rods
Remove rack

When you go to reinstall having an extra person helps

Thanks for the help.

The reason I dropped the rack was to get the tie rod ends off. Couldn't get it loose in the car and still can't get it loose out of the car. I've tried the special tool, pipe wrench, and big hammer/cold chisel combo.

So my question is, can I heat the rod end? The boot in the picture is already loose and I can move it out of the way. I don't see anything else that heat would damage, but thought I'd ask first.

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If I can't get the tie rod end out, are replacement bushing available that I can press back in without removing the tie rod end? (My initial intent was to use turbo-tie rods, but willing to settle for stock if I can get new bushings.) I've seen new tie rod ends with the bushing, but that wouldn't help me in this case.

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I have a very large adjustable wrench that always works. Just use something with a lot of leverage to unscrew it.

Knock the lock nut loose first with a hammer and chisel

Thanks guys. More leverage was the answer combined with knocking out the
bushing so I had some solid metal to grip.

The plight of inexperience

Def go for the turbo tie rods. Huge difference. And you don’t need a special jig to install them.

Moving on. Since the rack is out should I change the rubber puck just because I'm there? My puck does not have any visible damage and does not feel brittle when squeezed.

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Not trying to be cheap (well maybe), but why change out an OEM part to aftermarket when it's still good?

Also I noticed a plug where I can add grease to the rack. Thought I'd top it off while I'm there. I know we're suppose to use molybdenum disulfide grease, but any recommendation on brand? does it need to be synthetic?