This is my first time pulling the engine tin off and it looks like I need to pull the distributor and intake as part of that job.

I’m going to get the alternator rebuilt locally but I want to see what other things I should be thinking about at this point.

Oil cooler seals? Intake gaskets etc?

Thanks!

Assuming the engine is out of the car, I’ll start...

Oil cooler seals
Pushrod tube seals
Valve adjustment
Intake gaskets
Front main seal (if age/condition unknown)
Clutch if needed (rear main seal while you’re in there)
Refinish fan housing
Cooling flap rod bushings

Carbed or FI? What size? How deep do u want to go? Is the engine running well now?

Clean, clean, clean. Get all the gunk off the cylinder fins, cylinder head fins, and the oil cooler.

--DD

Hi guys-thanks for the responses.

Factory 2 L engine, I don’t think it’s been apart before. Tested at an even 150 across-the-board with good leak down figures. It fired up and ran briefly with no bad noises.

Apparently sat outside for some time-the critters build nests under the engine tin.

It has dual Webers on it now but I have everything to convert it to factory FI.

Haven’t been able to drive it in a car so the transmission can be hand shifted through the gears and everything rotates freely but I don’t know if the box is good or clutch or main seal.

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I would add, check over your wiring and replace the fuel hose with stuff that can handle the current fuel.

Jim

Dropped the motor over a month ago to change the battery tray and support. While it was out, changed front and rear crank seals, oil cooler seals, push rod tube seals, adjusted the valves, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, new clutch disc and pressure plate. Spent 2 weekends getting the oil and dirt off that had been caked on for at least 40 years.
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Nice work, looks like a new engine.

Does it matter if the fins on the pistons have surface rust? This was a coastal WA state car.

surface rust on the cylinders is not a problem.

@sholman5
Nice job cleaning and painting that engine and tin up.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace those motor mounts while it's so easy. Relatively cheap. Rubber hardens as it ages and is exposed to heat. If they are soft, pliable and don't show signs of either oil soaking or dry rot you can skip if on a budget. Just so easy to do them now.

While you're cleaning the fins on the cylinder heads, take a close look at casting flash.
My 2L heads had many of the cooling passages almost blocked by excess flash which had accumulated junk, so NO air was passing ner the exhaust ports. Several hrs work with long drills opened the passages.

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Thanks gentlemen - will take a close look

Squirt a good penetrant on all of the exhaust studs and clean them up with a small brass wheel on your drill. It will never be easier with the engine out.