Hey Guys, couldn’t take the leaking oil anymore....so, in a bold move, I decided to pull the motor! I’ve got everything sorted, all my ground straps and wiring is off...went down the check list, got my Tangerine plate and my dolly...now all I need is a guide, or two?...I’m more than willing to throw a BBQ together and refreshments I’m thinking the second weekend in July? 13/14....either day works...should not take too long, just four bolts right? Lol...I’m in Cornwall NY near West Point...PM me if you’ve got a free few hours that weekend, this way I can get it out and see how bad the oil leaks are!...Click to view attachment

you’re almost there to drop your engine. For sure you can do it by yourself.
Is your current lifter can drop your engine all the way down a furniture dolly and the highest to raise your car (rear valance) can get around 29”? so you can pull the engine. (engine and dolly height is around 28”)

Or use 2 floor jack to raise and lower your rear car during the engine removal.

1. All cables remove like clutch , accelerator, speedo
2. All wirings to top engine (F.I. or carb)
3. Tranny ground strap
4. Remove exhaust (it is fine also not removing it but easier and more space to work underneath)
5. Raise your rear a little bit enough for your to work underneath.
6. Loosen the tranny and engine mount bolts just enough for you to totally remove them later
7. Put your furniture dolly under the rear (vertical way of ur dolly)
8. Drop your rear slowly one side at a time (if using 2 floor jack) until
the engine touches your dolly (engine mount drop to one side of the padding of your dolly and rear end of dolly pad along tranny and you may need a small wood block for dolly to tranny) Note: check also your rotor that may hit the floor
9. Drop rear that engine is totally seated to your dolly. Note again: Check again if rotor is not hitting the floor.
10. Remove engine and tranny bolts.
11. Raise your rear car slowly and always check on top your engine bay to see if clearance are all okay. You may use 2 jack stand just for additional security but don’t forget to lower the floor jack every time you lower your rear until no enough space for the jack stand and you can just put them aside
12. Pull engine out

I took off the rear valance, and was figuring that lowering the car down to the dolly, removing the bolts, and lifting the car away from the motor would be the safest. Thanks for the height info...I’ll have to see how high that lift gets. I’m pretty sure she’s gonna make it...

I wish I had some time. I could use a drive over Bear Mountain... You're almost there. Take your time and be safe about it.

I use the 2 jack method raising under the control arms (rear tires off of the car). X2 for the dolly. Approx match the angle of the car when almost fully lowered and add some dunnage on the front of the dolly. If you have carbs, remove the carbs from the intakes leaving the linkage intact. This preserves your current adjustment. Just loosen the engine and trans attachment points. It's easier than you might think.

I think a group of 914 guys are meeting in Chester NY that weekend. I am sure someone can come by and help you out, if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. BTW - What you have left to do is the easy part.

We'll figure out a way to help you out. PM your phone number to me.

I’m in northern Westchester and am happy to come by and help. If you haven’t seen it already, my engine drop video is in the list on the link in my sig below...

i'm free. lets do it before mid july, then you can drive over to tech sesh/bbq. I am 20 minutes away. pm me. if you need tools, jacks/stands/dolly let me know.

Problem solved!!! Great bunch of people.

I grew up in Orange County, NY. This thread is making me homesick

I saw Ian at Bear Mt. tonight and he mentioned your post.
Can you handle about 10 eager helpers ?
I'm in too.
Rory
PS ..your car looks great.

I do it by myself. I use a jack under the engine bar to replace each outer mount bolt with a long piece of 3/8" threaded rod, two flat washers and 3 nuts (two on top locking each other and one on the bottom. Replace each side and tighten all the way.

Put jack under rear of transmission and slowly lower each side of the engine bar by using a ratchet wrench on the bottom nut of the threaded rod. Lower the rear of the trans as needed.

This method allows very precise control of the drop which is nice if you still have your fuel injection intact since the clearance on the sides is pretty tight.

... Or have a couple of guys over and get to know some fellow 914 enthusiasts!

Wow, as expected, you guys couldn’t have been more helpful. Looks like I’ll get by with a little help from my friends! Thank you and hopefully my next picture will be back behind the wheel...thanks again...
Terry.

Get a Tangerine jack plate and make it an easy, one person effort. Most people only regret not buying one sooner.
http://www.tangerineracing.com/tools.htm

Cornwall is a pretty place. Tackling 9W over Storm King in a teener would be a blast.

The best....

+1 on the Tangerine engine plate, but you'd need 3 floor jacks. I'm so spoiled with my 2 post hoist.

@Tjmrfe

I would be very interested to see if the Quik Jack can lift the car high enough to clear the engine coming out the back.
Removing the filler neck reduces the engine hieght.
It can be done alone but it good to have a helper to watch that it comes out well with nothing catching.
And do you have those rubber blocks for thto give a couples inches more height.
Bruce

Hey Bruce...

Yep. I've been doing it with Quick Jack. With the standard blocks you just have to take off the rear valance.

I bet if you only put blocks on the rear that would be enough angle to not have to remove the valence.

The Quickjacks that I have used have all been taller then my 3 ton jack.

IIRC you need 19 inches off the floor to get the engine out.

Zach

Actually...using the tall blocks that come with the QJ allows the engine to clear...but they're a little less stable. I feel more comfortable just removing the valance and going with the short blocks.

I removed valance, wasn’t too bad, and have her up on short blocks...we’ll see...

Hi,
Been a bit busy, but yes, the quick jack was perfect, took the rear valance off...and used a Tangerine support plate on my floor jack, the quick jack was a big help, allowing the to raise and lower with the touch of a button....bought it used, and saved 1/2. I highly recommend it.

I did and I can’t imagine doing it with out it? Wow...motor definitely would have tipped....thanks.

Yup she worked like a dream, that QJ was ideal.
I removed rear valance, and took off entire F.I. Assembly....slid out like butter...

Bit late to the party but we do have a nice write-up in the "Technical Articles" section:
http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop1.php

Thanks!....and yes I ended up using all the resources I could find. Worked out ok. I think the worst was, like FDR said,...the only thing I had to fear was fear itself...now that I’ve done it once, it’ll be a breeze from now on! Thanks for the input.