I've got just a few things left to do before pulling my car off the rotisserie and making it a roller. One of them is installing and torquing the rear axle stubs so as not to wreck my new bearings. The car will be a roller with no engine or trans for the next few months. I go back and forth about which would be better - bolt the axles onto the stubs before they go in, or install stubs only for now and bolt the axles in later. It's been decades since I installed an axle with the stub in the car and don't remember how much of a PITA it is compared to the PITA of dealing with loose inner axle ends while the car is a roller without transmission installed. What's your preference?

I’d go ahead and bolt the axles in while it’s still on the rotisserie. It isn’t that bad of a job if you waited but it’s be easier if you’d go ahead and do it.

I'd put the hubs and stubs, but not torque the stubs to spec. It's easier to put the CV on the stub axle with it removed. I've done it both ways, and it's much harder with the stub on the car.

I would just install the stubs.
I don't like rolling the car around with the axles flopping about.

I don't find installing the axles with the stubs in place that much harder than bolting the stub to the axle out on a bench and then installing it.
I just did this a couple weeks ago and the worst part was not being able to turn the wheels to get a better angle on a couple bolts because the wheels were sitting up on furniture dollies.

As you can see others find it more difficult with the stubs in place. YMMV

Jim

Depending on how much rolling around you'll be doing, having the axles flopping around can be annoying (coat hangers, plastic straps, etc...to hold the axles level helps).

How about installing the hubs/stub axles and loosely install the axels/cvs finger tight?. If you find they get in the way too much, it'll be easier to remove them. And torqing them is pretty easy when you're ready...

Isn't the issue that hasn't been stated yet, that things can work their way loose if not contained? So, contain them. Is there an easier way than connecting axles? Probably could make something tidy that captures it.

No question, stubs! As stated, no need to torque them

This is all great feedback and some good ideas. I was under the impression that you needed to torque the stubs to spec before rolling the car to make sure the bearings don't separate. Not true? If not, the follow up question is, can the stubs be easily pushed back out after they have been snugged enough to safely roll the car around? I'm thinking that would be the best of both worlds. Loosely install the stubs. Roll the car around. Then when it's time to install the engine, pop the stubs out and bolt the axles on at the bench where it is easiest. Would that actually work?

I have an extra set of -4 stubs that will not fit any of my cars now, but I got them to make my 914-4 a roller. With out them you run the risk of tearing up the bearings if you do not have a stub in place.

PM me I will make you one heck of a deal to get them out of the shop, It was a bone head purchase on my part.

If you don’t want to risk damaging your new wheel bearings you must apply some torque the stubs.

Torque between the stub and the hub is what applies preload across the wheel bearing races. Split race double row ball bearings MUST have at least some preload on them to avoid damaging the wheel bearing. No torque will allow the bearing to “split” and you’ll end up with the balls rolling on a portion of the race that they were never intended to roll on.

If you don’t want to do full torque at least do 1/2 torque spec to just roll it around the garage.

Put only the stubs in and tighten with a breaker bar.
You can roll the car around as needed without any risk to bearings or interference from axles flopping about.
You'll have to raise the car anyway to install the engine....remove the stubs ...add the
axles ....install the assembled units. BEFORE the exhaust.