I need to change the isolater on my 914-6 because the threads were
damage when the pump was removed. The damaged isolater is the lower of the two. I can't get the isolater to unscrew from the body. my thought was to unscrew the isolater install an new one. Ha! it will not unscrew from the body.

Anybody been there done that ........HELP loosing a lot of time on this.

Thanks very much

I don't know the /6 pump but isn't the isolators mounted on a clamp?

Oh the body of the car.

Torch, tap with hammer, vice grips.
Break off the rubber down to the metal stud first, might even come off without heat, just the vice grips.
It's a weld nut on the body you have to get the nut hot.

Is it a welded nut?
PET shows separate 6mm nuts and washers on the top of the sheet metal engine shelf.
The ones on my car (72 4cyl) look permeantly attached with layers of paint but it appears to be a nut, lock washer and a flat washer. Kind of tough to see with the FI control unit in the way.

Would be tough to hold the isolator and undo the nut with the engine in place sence they are on opposite sides of the engine shelf.

Jim

Come to think of it I believe you're right, top of the shelf is a 6mm nut.
Vice grips on the old isolator and a 10mm socket should do it.

You lost me. The lower isolator turns with vice grips when turned to the left. The isolator
doesn't increase the distance between the frame and the lsolator. I'm stopped at the
moment. A serviceable isolator seems essential. Did the weld nut fail allowing the nut to
turn?

I have no experience with the four cyl. equipment.

You need to post pics, we don't even know if it's factory or something a PO cobbled together.

They're not weld nuts. Just 6mm holes in the body. You're just dealing with normal 50yr old car stuff. The fasteners are rusted together. And getting these free can be a special pain in the ass, since the rubber mount has very little to grab onto and anything that sparks puts you at risk for fire.

DON'T use the URO ones, they're way too soft. Suitable replacements are available from McMaster-Carr.

yup that is the way, the two mounts are small rubber pucks with a stud on each end the upper secured to the engine shelf with. 6mm (10mm headed) nut and washer and lock. You can grind the head of the stud/nut off and free the hole, clean it up and touch it up, as obviously there is rust in the area

This car is original 80K miles. No cobbled job on this area. What is the engine shelf
ya'll refer to? I'll try to get a picture later today. Car has sat over ten years in my
garage. No rust in the area. Car is almost rust free.

Thanks for the help. I'll try to get pictures.

Engine shelf is the part of the body that meets up with the engine tin surround. The nuts are below the front of the battery support, right near the hell hole, a PITA to get at but doable.

you can get to the top nut for the fuel pump mount just in front of where the fuel lines both come through the engine shelf. Even if the car is very clean, the nuts may be rusted and will need a squirt of pb blaster and then worked for awhile to loosen and remove.

Here is the picture of the isolators on the right side of the engine compartment
below the engine tin. Bottom one will not unscrew.
The two lines are fuel supply and return.

Thanks for your attention.

Gene

FWIW Seafoam Deep Creep is the best penetrating fluid you can buy. 1 part ATF to 1 part acetone is very effective too.

Looks like a job for ant man

I couldnt get my arm im there and do anything productive .... But when your stuck in sunland or la canada ..... You gotta call leman or lemon ...

I'll give Leamon a call. He is a very great resource.

Gene

Just dont let him buy the car from you

Gene,
You need a helper to get that loose.
Directly on the other side of the sheet metal the isolator is attached to, is the nut holding the isolator on.
You can't get to the nuts from under the car with the engine in the car so you need someone to be under the car and hold the isolator from turning and someone else to reach into the engine compartment from above and loosen the nut.

Jim

Leamon is the only other person who has driven the car. He's not that
interested in completely stock original car even if it's a 71.

The "other side" isn't accessable. If it is I'll need a map. I'll get it, when is another story!

knew I had a pic somewhere

topside view of the isolators on the right side of the engine compartment

Click to view attachment

Was your car a factory six or a conversion from a four? I don't have the
same configuration on my factory 71 six cyl.

I want to assure that we are dealing with equal cars.

THANK YOU! I hope your correct!!!

Was your car a factory six or a conversion from a four? I don't have the
same configuration on my factory 71 six cyl.

I want to assure that we are dealing with equal cars.

THANK YOU! I hope your correct!!!

I see said the blind man!!!!!

I found the nuts per the last picture posted!

THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

MY CAR HAS quite a few smog lines there but at long last
I see.