I can't get the big 30mm nut off the outside end of the half-shalf.
I've hit it with my impact wrench for several minutes and it won't move.
Than put a big breaker bar on it and I bent the bar.
(Yes, I removed the cotter pin:wacko:)
It's just rusted on.


So is there a way to remove the c/v joint from the "inside" of the trailing arm?

Also the small counter sunk screws that hold the disc on won't come out, but I'll just drill them out.

Thanks
Paul

I think you can, but it's a pain. Very little room inside the trailing arm to reach the socket screws that hold the outer cv joint to the stub axle.

I would'nt give up on the latter just yet, though. Douse it with loose nut every day for 3 - 4 days then try again, Then, you can put some heat on it, preferably with an oxy torch, but any torch wll help.

After that, things get interesting. I'm pretty sure that castelated (sp?) nut is a standard hardware store piece, although you may need a well stocked one. In any event, you can drill a hole in the nut, parallel to the axis of the stub axle, but just outside of it, then break the nut. Careful not to damage the axle threads.

Oh, and you can get a bigger monkey bar and put a tube over it.

Michel Richard
In snowy, salty Montreal

On one side I did get the nut off, but can't get it apart.
Other side can't get the nut off.

I'll put some heat to it and get a bigger hammer.

Paul

i hate dicking with rusted bolts....i took a dremel to my exhaust bolts and just tapped the cut ends with a hammer and flathead and they broke right apart....my new bolts and stuff have anti-sieze on them.

I've managed to unscrew the cv bolts, but it is a PITA. You have to get one of those long reach cv tools. The other hard part is separating the cv from the stub axle. I pulled and pried on the cv using the shaft to get it out.