I need to order some body filler to fill the imperfections left after my extensive metal work. All welds have been skimmed with kevlar reinforced and zinc enriched DTM filler and the chassis has two coats of 2K PPG epoxy. I need to fill all the areas where my repairs are not quite perfect before high build and then blocking the whole shell. Got a favorite filler you recommend for this application?

And before someone says the only good filler is no filler, congratulations on your superior metal working skills and unlimited time...

U-Pol Products 0745 Flyweight Gold Lightweight Body Filler - 3 Liter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00397N1MU/ref=cm...i_9W7nDb8HNSJH0

Note it's 3 liters not a gallon. Seems to be a hair thinner than normal and doesn't clump. You can thin it pretty good with acetone if needed. I used to mix it with 2 part glaze putty all the time when I needed to do a thin coat of body filler.

Depends on the body...........

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Gotta link to a source for that one? Looks interesting.

Kitty Hair by Evercoat.. or any good brand that is made up of short strand shredded fiberglass (as opposed to say Tiger Hair or the like, longer strand). These fillers are really strong and maintain some flex, which is good on a sporty driven car. The fiberglass in them bind them together better than the plain varieties too. JMHO, good luck with your project.

I found this All Metal years ago. Does not shrink and has Alum in it.
Sorry pic not clear number is 14060. Not cheap but top quality product.
Best of luck!

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Evercoat Rage Gold.

The fiberglass fillers are only good for filling larger imperfections, you probably won't be needing that much filler.


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Also like this finishing putty. the squeeze container kind of sucks though. you can spread this with a razor blade to finish tiny imperfections. its very fine. May not be needed if using high build primer, but I used it anyway.

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Lead

I used Rage gold as well as that glazing putty. The rage gold is good for the cost, slightly heavier and thicker than the Upol stuff I mentioned. That glazing putty is my favorite.

Right on -- Old School!

In a perfect world.

Best plan is to locally remove primer that is there before adding any filler or finish putty. Don't try to put filler over existing primer unless it absolutely cannot be avoided - even then I still wouldn't want to do it.

I do like lead though for durability if done right. Lots of old street rods have it. They don't call them Lead Sleds for no reason.

PITA to work with though and will crack if flexing occurs. I once used it to fill some smallish holes and rust pitting in the headlamp covers on my 1st 914. Eastwood is but one of many sources for lead.

w/ Jim

You can also use this on powder coat projects.

Excellent results.

Oscar

Lead cracks.. Remember all of the camaros and firebird of the 70s that had lead cracks where the 1/4 meets the roof?

I like rage gold myself then a good primer/surfaces that easily blocks out. Let sit for a good 6 months reblock then paint. All the shrinkage will be done by then..

Somewhere in my build thread documents my attempt to use lead. My hat is off to anyone who is proficient using that stuff. My attempt was mostly successful, but sure made me appreciate what an art working with that stuff is.

Our guy is pretty good at it. It's the proper repair on 356's and some spots on 911's but he uses a special vapor collection vac while he works.

Everyone is so contentious now. Back in the day there was a reason a lot of the paint and body guys seemed just a little bit crazy. Too much solvent and lead fumes.

I sort of miss those days.

Oscar, are you thinking about Lab Metal? I don't think you can heat All Metal to the point where powder will flow.

Zach

The least amount possible.

Thanks for all the feedback! Follow up question, what do you use for spreaders? I've always used the cheap yellow plastic spreaders. Are there metal (or other) spreaders that are better and save time?

Thanks again

Yellow plastic for me.. Buy allot of them .. You can reuse them about 5-10 times each if you clean them properly.. I use new ones for the final skim to ensure no little chunks..

I buy new ones for each full paint job.

Cool. I use them the same way. I often tune up the edges by running them over fine sandpaper on a flat surface between uses but still like to use new for that final skim. Never used anything else so figured I'd ask.

Try to get the metal work leveled first. Finishing glaze if you have to pick up some slight low areas. High build primer and a block.