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sdoolin
My 89 Carrera burned up an alternator over the weekend, also popped a battery. Lots of smoke escaped (scared the sh*t outta me), and we all know what happens when the smoke gets out. Car is dead. I am lucky it didn't burn to the ground on the side of the road. I have been threatening to take the engine out since I bought this car - just for a cleaning & detailing. Yes, I know. Very slippery slope. But, I gotta take it out.

I have a couple of engine stands that will easily support that engine, but I need the engine yoke. I see a QSC branded engine yoke on Amazon for like $228. Couldn't find one on Pelican, and I think SierraMadre sells one for up over $1k. Anyone here have experience with the QSC piece, or have recommendation for where I can get a quality engine yoke?
bretth
I purchased this one
Engine yoke and it seems like good quality. You just have to supply your own engine stand and drill the holes for the lock pin (which did take some time to finish.) I have had my 2.2 911 and fully load 1.8 type 4 motor on it and it is pretty sturdy.

QUOTE(sdoolin @ Jul 29 2019, 02:36 PM) *

My 89 Carrera burned up an alternator over the weekend, also popped a battery. Lots of smoke escaped (scared the sh*t outta me), and we all know what happens when the smoke gets out. Car is dead. I am lucky it didn't burn to the ground on the side of the road. I have been threatening to take the engine out since I bought this car - just for a cleaning & detailing. Yes, I know. Very slippery slope. But, I gotta take it out.

I have a couple of engine stands that will easily support that engine, but I need the engine yoke. I see a QSC branded engine yoke on Amazon for like $228. Couldn't find one on Pelican, and I think SierraMadre sells one for up over $1k. Anyone here have experience with the QSC piece, or have recommendation for where I can get a quality engine yoke?
infraredcalvin
The QSC is more like the sir tools branded one that pelican sells. It has a thick and tapered edge flange that mounts to the case half which allows for the flywheel to stay in place, the use of the flywheel lock sold on the same page, and gives you enough space to remove the flywheel and clutch while mounted to the stand (your results may vary). It also doesn’t interfere with the sheet metal.

They also sell an adaptor, which is just the thick edge that attaches to the case half. You adjust the arms on your universal engine holder to align with the mounting holes. I have both, and have used the adaptor to hold up my fully dressed 930 engine (exhaust and all) it is more than strong enough, despite what others claim from their keyboard without actual experience.

FYI - Depending on the length of the sleeves on your universal stand, the adaptor may not give enough room for tools whale removing clutch and flywheel.

Personally I haven’t tried the thin flange one, it may work fine, but I’d buy the adaptor before I bought that as it has the tapered end that fits the case exactly where it needs to be.
infraredcalvin
Here is the adaptor I bought mine, used once for a rebuild for $75 on the Pelican classifieds.

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay....1UaAueHEALw_wcB

I also found a pic of my 930 engine during disassembly using the adaptor, you can see it at the very bottom of the pic...

Click to view attachment
gms
QUOTE(bretth @ Jul 29 2019, 02:09 PM) *

I purchased this one
Engine yoke and it seems like good quality. You just have to supply your own engine stand and drill the holes for the lock pin (which did take some time to finish.) I have had my 2.2 911 and fully load 1.8 type 4 motor on it and it is pretty sturdy.


I also have the one from the samba vendor, built a 3L on it
Krieger
QUOTE(infraredcalvin @ Jul 29 2019, 08:34 PM) *

Here is the adaptor I bought mine, used once for a rebuild for $75 on the Pelican classifieds.

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay....1UaAueHEALw_wcB

I also found a pic of my 930 engine during disassembly using the adaptor, you can see it at the very bottom of the pic...

Click to view attachment


I too have the heavy, thick adapter ring. I think I got it from Pelican. It fits perfect. To mount it to the universal engine stand I cut some longer spacers out of heavy wall tubing. This is for clearance to get the flywheel on and off. I believe the cheaper stands with the thin plate steel do not allow you to put the oil cooler on while the engine is mounted on the stand. Ask the manufacturer if you can.
sdoolin
Thanks for all the responses folks!

I have one of the three arm yokes from the Samba vendor. I used it for my 2056 build and have been happy with it. It seems well made. I plan to order the five arm yoke from them.
Mark Henry
QUOTE(bretth @ Jul 29 2019, 03:09 PM) *

I purchased this one
Engine yoke and it seems like good quality. You just have to supply your own engine stand and drill the holes for the lock pin (which did take some time to finish.) I have had my 2.2 911 and fully load 1.8 type 4 motor on it and it is pretty sturdy.


The problem with the one above is it won't work well with a T4 engine, it won't let you get #3 piston pin in and you can't dress the engine on the stand. The original and SIR yokes have a step in the ring and IIRC a small relief for the pin.
I believe the 3 or 4 arm HD versions don't have this issue and are strong enough for a /6 build. It's not just the extra arms that give it the strength, it's also the thickness of the half ring.

Only matters if you're building both T4 and 6.
porschetub
The generic "V8" engine stand is an accident waiting if you use it with a 911 engine,have seen heaps of folks using them....really a worry,the half yoke is the only safe damage free solution,I use a crazy heavy one I built years ago no risk of busting a very $$$$$$ engine.
Click to view attachment
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