I've run into 2 problems:

1) I can't tighten the nut connecting the steering knuckle to the tie rod ball joint. The ball joint pin just spins. I read that I should use a jack under the tie rod ball joint to lock the pin into the knuckle allowing the nut to be tightened.

Is this the correct technique? Is there anything I can damage by pushing up against the tie rod ball joint?

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2) If I'm reading my Haynes Manual correctly the strut to ball joint pin should be torqued to 47 ft-lb. I think I may have stripped mine at 20 ft-lb. Do I have the correct torque spec? It seems like the pin is held in with friction. Can I just Loctite the nut on?

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Join the club on getting confused about torque specs on that expensive little bolt and ruining it. You are at least the third. The correct torque is 16.2 ft-lbs Yeah, even as I was wrenching I thought 47 ft-lbs was insane for an M8 bolt but I went ahead and snapped it off anyway. If you are lucky, you stripped the nut rather than the bolt.

The tie rod end is a taper fit, just like a drill press uses a Jacobs Taper to hold the chuck on, so all you need to do is apply some pressure to lock them together while you get the nut on enough to hold everything in place.

Depending on the vehicle/application/situation/shop I've been in I've used jacks, c-clamps, vise grips, channel locks, etc. just something to squeeze them together, doesn't take very much.

In theory it is held by friction. However road induced vibration and flexing can loosen a joint like this. Remove and replace with new part. Do not allow your life to depend on Loctite!

Thanks, all very useful information.

I think I got lucky. The nuts are stripped, but the tapered pin threads look good and a plain M8 nut threads normally. Got new stainless lock nuts. If they don't hold toque (16.1 ft-lb) I'll change the pins too.

What is the torque for the turbo tie rod ball joint to knuckle? My Haynes book says 33 ft-lb.

I had the same issue installing my new turbo tie rod kit. The tie rod ball joint just kept spinning. What i did was put the correct size socket on the nut. Then got a decent sized C clamp and clamped down on the socket over the nut. Keep turning until the ball joint seats, undo the C clamp, and you should now be able to tighten the nut.

The Haynes manuals are not exactly error free,I think the proof readers aren't the best.
I have found the descriptions they give for the bolt/nut location can be confusing also,if a DIY guy and not sure there will be a torque schedule you can check online for all size metric bolts according to size and tensile strength.

Using a bolt torque chart is great advice for a sanity check.

Is it safe to assume that everything on the 914 is at least grade 8.8 or equivalent?

Specifically the tapered pin and turbo tie rod ball joint thread.