Anyone have a method for removing outer CV joints while still on car? My trans is out and just the shafts are still connected. I want to flat tow the car without engine, trans, or drive shafts.

I've only been successful at that once, and it was harder that just pulling the entire half shaft, which can also be a hassle if you don't have the right tools.

See if you can find a pair of stub axles sitting around in someone's garage (I keep a pair in the parts box for such contingencies).

I had to do an emergency outboard CV bolt repair on PatrickB's car last weekend, no problem removing the half shaft even with the trans in. You have to sneak the shaft over the trans to pull it out.
R&R drivers side half shaft, chase the threads on the stub and torque all the CV bolts didn't take me more than 2 hours.

But, how, I think, is the question. It's near impossible to get anything in there to coax the CV joint off the stub axle flange. Even after removing the bolts, they are very tightly mated to the stub. What did you use, Mark? My understanding is that the stub needs to be pulled so you can pry them off on the bench, but can you back off the castle nut and pound on it from the outside?

I tried to remove one of mine (stupidly) by using the half axle like a slide hammer. This popped the circlip off the end of the shaft, but I DON'T RECOMMEND this method, as I think it might be just as likely to break the circlip, or worse, chip a piece off the end of the shaft. And, of course, the CV joint is still on there.

You remove the halfshaft from the car. Piece of cake since you already have the transaxle removed.

Why the hassle of trying to do it while still installed in the car?

I didn't think of that, his bolts had failed the CV was already off.
I'd pull the stubs out, I have an air zip gun I put the pointy end punch in and the stubs usually hammer right out without hurting the bearing. Then remove the shaft/CV and put the stubs back in for towing.

Generous use of anti-sieze on the splines will assist in making it an easier job "next time". Mine slide right out with a light blow from the HF BOH (Big Orange Hammer).

Doesn't removing the stub shaft ruin the rear bearings? It was easy for me to get the inner CVs off with just some sideways light hammer tapping. Maybe if I put a tight fitting drift into one of the bolt holes and tapped it sideways it could pop out?

The cv can bond with the flange. Trying to separate them can be futile. Your only recourse may be to remove the large nut, I use a electric impact, on the hub and draw the whole assembly outboard thru the rear trailing arm.

Tools/materials necessary: 30mm socket, 3/4 breaker bar. Recommended 2' or so length of pipe sized to slide over your breaker bar handle. 3' length of 2" angle iron (7g)
Step 1: Measure & drill pair of M14 holes in each end of the angle iron on opposing legs
Step 2: Bolt your new tool to the face of your rear disc using the OE lugs (after you've removed the wheel )
Step 3: Remove the .5 shaft from the hub complete using your socket, breaker bar & lever pipe
Step 4: Separate the stub from the .5 shaft OR buy a very affordable set of spare stubs HERE
Step 3: reinstall stub
Rinse & repeat.

Aerokroil that big nut. A few treatments. Tap on it with a hammer. Let it work. Dunnage up the car so it doesn't fall off the jack stands and hit the floor when you're reefing on that cheater bar. A 1/2" drive electric impact, autozone about $50 iirc, and a hardened socket makes short work of it. Way safer.