Hey Gents,
In the “well this isn’t fun category”
I’m taking the tin’s off my 1.8... (Who’s bright idea was it to use flat head screws?)
So far, the ones going into the block are frozen...Should I apply heat?
On the exposed ones, a little nut buster and some heat they came right off, I’ve tried tapping with a hammer and a screwdriver, to no avail....
But, I’m apprehensive about using heat with ones that go into the block? Should I be?
As always, thanks in advance...

I would use heat. It’s our go to at the shop. The penetrating oil does very little to nothing until you break up the corrosion with heat.

Thanks, I guess my concern was on the aluminum, appreciate the input.

Ditto on heat, just had to do this, it helped.

Like Mark said heat it. If not going for concourse switch to allen heads. Hell even if going for concourse switch them to allens. Makes it that much easier the next time. Also, apply the anti-seize

I use a hand impact on the tough ones. I have any old Craftsman set and the large flathead fits perfectly.

I also have a set of metric Stahlwille screwdrivers that have a hex section on the shank that you can put a box end wrench on, and they really work well. You can really lean on it and turn it with the wrench.

There's a difference between metric and SAE screws and the right fit makes a difference on tough to remove fasteners

Thanks! Heat it is.....

Absolutely! No concourse here....lol. Getting a bag of Allen’s on Amazon as we speak! Thanks Click to view attachment

We sell the stainless ones if you need them.

Heat yes,small butane torch,I undo the chewed out ones a larger pair of vicegrips on the head,when reassembling run a 6mm plug tap down the threads to clean up,I find this works best on the tin pieces with captive nuts.
Good luck.

Don’t be afraid to get it HOT. We use MAP gas to loosen up the area around the head studs on 911 engines. 2-3 minutes of direct flame on the aluminum or magnesium case. Your not going to hurt it and I think it’s easier on the threads to remove the hardware once the corrosion has loosened and the threads are lubricated than to try to remove dry. I happen to like using paraffin once the metal is hot. Instead of evaporating off, the heat wicks it into the threads and lubes them. I’ve used old candles with better success than the popular penetrating oils.

Also helps to have the LARGE standard screwdriver that fits the slot.