Has anybody tried this?Click to view attachment

If it’s DT50, that’s what I use in my 4 cyl 914. In back to back drives my oil temp was 20F lower on DT50 than Brad Penn green oil. Kinda pricey but I only change oil once a year.

Have been using it in our 993. Still using what Brad Penn I have left in the 914's.

Yep, It was developed under my roof, back in 2009.. The first generation of it had my seal on the bottle, and it earned it.

So what makes it better? Can you give is a breakdown of the advantages?

It's formulated specifically for air cooled engines

It is great oil. Use in my NA and turbo air cools. As Raby stated, his group put the oil through the wringer and they endorse it for their builds.

Any issue with going from Dino/regular to synthetic, especially higher mileage engines? There was considerable increase in oil leaks when I switched to synthetic in my ‘82 Mercedes Diesel.

Thanks,
Mike

Curious to see what Jake has to say about this, as I remember trying to switch to synthetic years (many years) ago on a very tired Type IV and the leaks seemed to 10x themselves. Was like a sieve.

Driven Oil looks very interesting. Curious, also, for Jake's take on Michael's observation of 20° F cooler on this oil. I've been contemplating a small external oil cooler out back, as my engine has seen 215° F from time to time, usually on the freeway.

Sorry but this is a marketing statement, I need actual details.

I agree 100%...if this reduces my oil temp by 20 degrees then I'm all in....

Thanks Jake, my mechanic recommended it and with your endorsement I know it must be good.

What about the High Zinc thing. I’m about to change my oil this weekend with the Driven conventional oil with High Zinc. Is this synthetic better??

Technically, I think it is ZDDP:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_dithiophosphate

Used to be in most oils, banned by EPA except for special oils, protects older cams, lifters, pushrods, etc. that were not as hardened as today. Use Brad Penn in all my old motorcycles to make them last...

This has to be great stuff.......

GN

Most "racing" oils have ZDDP levels higher than the oils back before emissions got involved.

Driven Racing Oil used to be Joe Gibbs Racing oil
It's custom made by Lubrizol
https://www.lubrizol.com/Lubricant-and-Fuel-Additives

Looks like their formulations lack the normal detergents in the additive package (who doesn't like deposits in their engines? )
Loaded with ZDDP

Unless someone independent of Jake or Driven wants to run it and then send it out for analysis after 3k miles

I would not consider this a street oil, racing would be fine due to frequent changes and engine refreshes.

Known "good" oils are Brad Penn PennGrade 1 and Driven DT50. I think I read that Driven GP1 is Brad Penn base with Driven additive package. Likely to be good as well.

I got the Driven HR-5 conventional. Is it an acceptable choice for street use?

Street oils have different additive packages than race oils because they are for different proposes and the engines are not serviced as often.

Things like detergents and friction modifiers in street oil are built around longevity (thousands of miles) not race capability (few hundred miles).

The amount of these additives and which ones are based on data collection, years of research, and real world testing.

I'm not saying Driven oil isn't good, just saying it may not be the best choice for street cars.

I used DT 50 for the last eight years of owning a 98 993. And use Driven DT40 in my 2007 Cayman and will use DT50 again when my 914-6 GT Tribute is done. Best, Mark

Sorry I was in a hurry. That's the one sentence summary of the 15 min tech talk Charles Navarro gave on this oil last year at Octeenerfest. I fogot it's on the bottle. I'd personally rank DT50 as the first choice for oil in an air cooled engine

@mlindner DT40 is an ancient additive package and has been shown in analysis to actually test out as a 30wt not it's advertised 40wt. Pick up a jug of Motul Xcess 5w-40, you'll get a great tried and tested oil in the actual viscosity you're looking for, and you'll save some cash.

I am curious how many miles you put on your 993 and if you ever had the valve covers off?

@IronHillRestorations - sorry didn't mean to sound like a jerk was just looking for more data

I see on the Driven website they list this as a "street performance oil." Not the data you are looking for but seems to indicate they had street use in mind for the formulation.

https://www.drivenracingoil.com/dt50-5w-50-...rmance-oil.html

There may be proposes (as said). This topic will always come back around again..again. Will the answers be the same?

Not to start a S--T Storm, but what are your "Oil Expert" credentials? We are all highly opinionated individuals on this board, and I know oil is like religion so try to be helpful. I know that you did not build a camshaft "Spinatron" to test almost every oil in search of the answer as to why cams and lifters suddenly started failing. Jake and Charles did. You did not post the results to the board as Jake and Charles did. The recommendation to use Brad Penn 10-15 yrs ago came from Jake and Charles, they had no financial interest in making that recommendation, just the interest of the community.

The Driven oil project came about because Brad Penn's formulation changed and Jake thought he could do better. Driven DT-50 (and only DT-50) became Jake's aircooled go to oil. In spite of your opinion DT-50 is not a racing oil. Driven makes a lot of racing oils, but DT-50 isn't one of them.

So,MY opinion is use DT-50. I've used it since 2013 with good results.

Remember, it's your money and your engine. You pays your money and you takes your choice. Choose wisely.

Where do you buy this magic oil?

Google Driven DT-50 Oil. Lots of places. I got mine on Amazon Prime, free shipping.

That's a winner.

Tuns out I still have a case of Joe Gibbs DT40 in the garage. Haven't tried it yet. I guess it's time. Some reading is in order...

Chi-town. DT40 and DT50 both are the tools of choice for LN Engineering and Flat6. Lots of good oils out there, these just seem to fit me well. Best, Mark

To answer your question I am not an oil expert, my expertise is in automotive data collection which I've been doing for 20+ years with everyone from OEM powertrain evaluation to professional formula race teams.

I agree with you oil opinions are everywhere and discussing the points can be hazardous to your mental well being.

I've seen almost every oil manufacturer come onto one forum or another and put on a great dog and pony show.

A spinatron is an old way of testing oil and a heavy additive package can make any oil look good on it. (Remember the old Slick50 and Prolube commercials?)

It does not show you the nature (organic or synthetic) or the quality of the base stock or the additive package.

The easiest way to tell if an oil is worth the money is to have a virgin sample and a a sample after you have used it in your application and have them independently analyzed. This eliminates the opinion from the decision making process.

As I always tell people, do your homework and don't believe the internet.

Can anyone else speak to the claim of running 20 degrees cooler with the DT50? Many also recommend Brad Penn 20w 50. I am getting closer to the point of the first oil change and would like the best possible protection.

Also have heard many opinions on when to change the break in oil, is that at 100 miles, 300 miles, 500 miles or up to 1,000.

Would love to get more feedback from those more knowledgeable.

My friend and mechanic, and as good an air cooled mechanic as there is, has switched to Driven. I will too for the next change.

Since it is already 100+ here in nor cal I may have to try this, thanks for the post. Showing $16.99 a qt at Summitt, is that about right?

$16.99 a quart? Better provide some clear scientific evidence that it's worth it. VR-1 is half that.

I have been using liqui moly classic now and it seems to be just fine for 95% of the aircooled cars out there..

$12.89 Here

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/DV-02806

Bottom line, MOST of the people on here do not drive their cars 12k-20k miles a year. Can you justify a $80 oil change compared to 3 $25 oil changes on a 10k mile a year oil change. I would much rather change my oil 3 times, than once with a supposedly better oil.

It would cost almost $200 to change the oil in my 6 conversion.

Anyone know how many miles you need on a new rebuild before you go to a synthetic oil?

This is what I am using.Click to view attachment