Hi All! What tool(s) do I need to remove the tapered set screws at the firewall and transmission? I have an Allen wrench that seems to fit, though there is a little wiggle room, and a star/hex bit that is either too small or too big.

I can't budge either with the Allen and will need to remove both to replace a bushing at the firewall.

Pictures of tools will help, I am of course aware of the potential for stripping these screws which I want to avoid.

Thanks

Firsty make sure what allen key is the best fit possible and hopefully the screws aren't chewed out ,heat up the alloy part of the coupling surrounding the screw,the alloy will expand enough for the screw to come loose,good luck with this I suspect they would be a bitch to drill out...take your time.

How do you suggest I heat up?

Make sure you have a metric allen wrench. Also helps to clean them out with some brake cleaner to make sure the wrench is fully seated.

The set screws have a built-in thread locker, so they will need a bit of force to break lose.
That also makes them one time use only.

MAPP Torch 1st choice, Propane Torch 2nd choice. MAPP = More Heat.

I use a small butane torch that fills with cig lighter fill bottle,its small and you can get it into tight spaces,bought it recently and its been a valuable addition to my tool chest.

Ian Karr has a nice video on dropping his engine and you can see him remove these screws and the tool he uses. I think that is around the 7-10 minute mark, but the whole video is less than 19 minutes and well worth watching. He uses a 4mm T handled wrench for the cone screws.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMesGrjgcvg...dex=27&t=0s

As I recall, you are local in Richmond and I can lend you my torch if you need it. Just email me. I may have the T wrench as well, but I'd have to do some digging as the garage is in a bit of disarray.

Edit: found the torch and I have a 4mm allen socket. Just let me know if you need them. I'm near Alvardo Park just off MacBryde.

I recently stripped one of these screws at the tail end of the shift linkage. My brand new 4mm Allen wrench spun within the (now) enlarged hole. I tried using various EZ outs to no avail. Out of desperation, I started drilling it out and eventually buggered up the threads. I was rescued by a fellow member who graciously supplied me with a "new" connector piece. Again, the end at the back of the car. Uses the same screw.

Perhaps it would work best to try to ever slightly tighten the screw before going into reverse with your Allen wrench. Whatever it is, go slowwwlyyy.

If I did it again, I'd use a thinner drill to go in the middle of the 4mm hole. Then I'd try some of the reverse threaded thingy's to get it out. Instead I drilled the screw out with a drill close to the size of the outer threads and messed up the threaded hole. If you do drill it out, get an idea of how deep the cone screw is because there's a dimple on the other end of the cone and you don't want to make a new, widened hole in the shift linkage.

Paul

smaller drill bit is better; I used one a little smaller than the Allen wrench (1/8" IIRC).

Click to view attachment

I had a new cone screw on hand, so was able to measure about how deep I could go with the drill, then marked the drill bit with a "flag" of masking tape.

Drill severed the tip of the old screw without damaging the dimple on the shift rod.

Click to view attachment

Once the tip was severed, the remains of the screw came out pretty easily. Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good.

Hope this helps!

lube up, use a 4mm allen, and tap it to unfreeze the threads and then just unscrew