With the exception of the front trunk lock I've had to reconfigure the wafers in all my locks to get the key to turn smoothly. Everything has been keyed with the black key, the red key seems to not be for this car.
I'm working on the ignition key now and the key turned enough to start the car, but sometimes would catch and require a little wiggling. After opening the assembly, I notice some of the wafers stand slightly proud above the cylinder.
Does anybody know:
1) Do the wafers wear over time and I actually have the right wafers?
2) How many wafer types are there?
3) These wafers on ebay match dimensions. Any opinion if these will work on our cars?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Refill-Pack-For-ES...m4383.l4275.c10
Full Version: Learning about Keys and Locks
usually it is the key that wears not the wafer, those look like they will work perfectly. There are 1-4 in a 914
When we recut keys we look at old key heightes 1-4 for the wafers and then program the machine for that combination of 1-4 winding up cutting a perfect key not copying one
With the exception of the front trunk lock I've had to reconfigure the wafers in all my locks to get the key to turn smoothly. Everything has been keyed with the black key, the red key seems to not be for this car.
I'm working on the ignition key now and the key turned enough to start the car, but sometimes would catch and require a little wiggling. After opening the assembly, I notice some of the wafers stand slightly proud above the cylinder.
Does anybody know:
1) Do the wafers wear over time and I actually have the right wafers?
2) How many wafer types are there?
3) These wafers on ebay match dimensions. Any opinion if these will work on our cars?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Refill-Pack-For-ES...m4383.l4275.c10
When we recut keys we look at old key heightes 1-4 for the wafers and then program the machine for that combination of 1-4 winding up cutting a perfect key not copying one
QUOTE(Highland @ Sep 11 2019, 07:23 AM) 
With the exception of the front trunk lock I've had to reconfigure the wafers in all my locks to get the key to turn smoothly. Everything has been keyed with the black key, the red key seems to not be for this car.
I'm working on the ignition key now and the key turned enough to start the car, but sometimes would catch and require a little wiggling. After opening the assembly, I notice some of the wafers stand slightly proud above the cylinder.
Does anybody know:
1) Do the wafers wear over time and I actually have the right wafers?
2) How many wafer types are there?
3) These wafers on ebay match dimensions. Any opinion if these will work on our cars?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Refill-Pack-For-ES...m4383.l4275.c10
I didn’t buy the kit because of the description but I guess it’s cheap enough to give it a try.
“These wafers will not work in Auto locks.”
Tweets kit only includes 16 wafers for $45 but people are complaining they send money without receiving the product.
I changed around the wafers on a replacement trunk lock until they no longer stood proud and the lock worked perfectly. Prior to reworking the wafers, the lock wouldn’t turn with the ignition key.
“These wafers will not work in Auto locks.”
Tweets kit only includes 16 wafers for $45 but people are complaining they send money without receiving the product.
I changed around the wafers on a replacement trunk lock until they no longer stood proud and the lock worked perfectly. Prior to reworking the wafers, the lock wouldn’t turn with the ignition key.
Prior to rebuilding the locks, I placed each set of parts into a Tupperware, sprayed in some brake clean, agitated and then lubed with a Teflon dry lube. You need to remove the old gummed up grease from all the parts. The shiny wafers were black before cleaning.
More questions about the ignition key.
- Does it stop against the roll pin (holding the tumbler assembly together)?
- What is suppose to spring the key from the start position back to the run position?
- Is the ignition switch suppose to make electrical contact with the tumbler assembly? The new switch seems to have insulation.
Click to view attachment
- Does it stop against the roll pin (holding the tumbler assembly together)?
- What is suppose to spring the key from the start position back to the run position?
- Is the ignition switch suppose to make electrical contact with the tumbler assembly? The new switch seems to have insulation.
Click to view attachment
I don't understand the roll pin question but the set screw on the side of the tumbler goes through the hole in that little ear on the side of the switch to hold the switch in the tumbler. The tumbler is just a mechanical connection to the switch. It simply turns the the inner piece. The spring action is inside the switch to bring it back to run position after start. Your old switch is just worn out.
QUOTE(bbrock @ Sep 17 2019, 06:27 PM)
I don't understand the roll pin question but the set screw on the side of the tumbler goes through the hole in that little ear on the side of the switch to hold the switch in the tumbler. The tumbler is just a mechanical connection to the switch. It simply turns the the inner piece. The spring action is inside the switch to bring it back to run position after start. Your old switch is just worn out.
I was referring to the roll pin holding this assembly together.
Is it to act as a stop for the key too?
Click to view attachment
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