Hello....I am a big fan of JB Weld and have a crack in my oil pan. Has anyone used JB Weld High Heat or anything similar with success? The crack is about a half of an inch long so I am wondering if I can dodge the bullet and use a good product to fix. Thank you.
gg

914s don't have oil pans.. Its the case unless your talking another car or an engine swap.. Can you post a picture? Most times casting marks look like cracks..

I personally would have whatever crack you have is to just have it welded.. Around here that is likely 100 dollar weld job..

You might want to look at the extreme heat product instead. I have not used it, but I will probably get some tomorrow as my son has a hole in the Cat converter on his truck that I have never been able to plug. FYI, don't bother with the regular JB weld, because it will not handle the heat. However, I have used it on very small body work pinholes with great success.

Thank you MB. It is on a 944 Turbo and it is a very expensive fix. However I spoke with a 944 racing house and they said just JB weld it....we do it all the time. Seems enticing....just a little crack. gg

Not proud to admit it but I used regular JB Weld to repair an oil pan crack on my 228k miles Mazda Miata near the end of its life. Welding would be the right fix but it would not have been cost effective.

It worked well and lasted several years of intermittent low mileage use.

Getting the oil pan drained and immaculately clean with brake cleaner before applying the JB Weld was the key to success.

I cracked an oil pan on my Harley years ago. To keep running, I repaired it with JB Weld until new pan arrived. Did repair from the inside. Worked great. In fact, it may be that the cracked pan is still on it and the new one is in a box somewhere. I forget. That was at least 15 years ago.

I bought a used dry sump that had a small leak and JB Weld fixed that. Does that help?

Problem is getting it clean enough,the oil will continue to leach out of the crack while the JB Weld sets,you could try jacking the car up so what ever oil that is left in the sump will run to one side away from the repair area.
Make sure you rough up the surface so you will get a better bond,these products are very good but surface prep is the key.
The sump wouldn't get to hot for JB Weld IMO,good luck

BUT....doing similar repair work on my 2.7 case I used Devcon Titanium Putty per Peter Dawe's recommendation. Drain the engine well--like overnight. Now here's the key--get your shop vac and hook it up to the oil fill and block off any other vent lines. This creates negative pressure in the crankcase. Now clean with brake cleaner solvent--you'll see it suck into the crack. Get it good and dry, rough up the area with sandpaper and apply the putty epoxy while keeping the vacuum on. You may want to lay on a layer of fiberglass cloth as well to help hold the putty in place. Go for it!

Why not get a guy with a portable welder to do it right. A 944 turbo is great car and to fix the oil pan should be simple for a good welder..as I said if you were local I would charge you $100 to weld the crack.. Yes you would have to drain the oil but thats it. Jbweld will work but its a stop gap.

Where is the crack located on the pan? Happen to have a photo?


This is brilliant.

Maybe.

Be Aware of explosion hazard. Crankcase can get filled with explosive fumes if pulling vacuum on a vehicle with carbs.

Vacuums typically use brushed motors creating sparks. Usually those sparks are isolated from the vacuum centrifugal fan. Usually.

I’ve gotten away with stupid things - usually by luck or realizing what I was doing before the boom happened.

Be careful.

Even if there weren't any explosive fumes in the crankcase at the beginning there will be fumes once you spray the brake cleaner into the crack!

Jeff B

Ha, good point, didn't think of the explosion hazard. Shop Vac IED.

I imagine that proper welding will not just repair the crack but keep it from spreading.

I would love to weld it but I am worried about the heat factor on components inside the oil pan. I did a test batch of JB High Heat and it looks really promising. Rock hard and sticky. Getting the crack really clean is my job for moment. Will see if I can get a picture. Thanks you guys.
gg

I have a leak on each side of my tractors rear end, cleaned up good but would start to weep after a bit so I used 5 minute epoxy on it.
After 5 years drip free one side is starting to weep again.

I have used regular JB Weld to repair a 901 mag trans case in the bottom (oil)
it was meant to be a temporary fix but
worked just fine for years....used it for many other automotive fixes temp and permanent
key is prepping the surface for the JB.

as mentioned it's always best to weld up....but sometimes you just can't
good luck with the repair.

I've used JB weld to epoxy aluminum oil diverting panels inside T4 cases to turn wet sump road race engines into dry sump engines. 240* oil temps and all the vibration and harshness associated with 8000RPM race engines didn't shake them lose.

JB weld is great stuff. Has a max temp of 600*.

If you prep properly you can think of it as a permanent repair to your oil pan.

its all in the prep as I mentioned...great product.

Here you go. I am feeling very confident about this fix. Test batch hard as nails and sticky.
gg

That's not a pan. It's the block.
If it were a pan I'd say braze it.
I do have complete engine or just a short block if you need it let me know I'm more inclined to hold onto the head as the ceramic liners are all intact.