I have a strange 4-way flasher problem: turn signals work, e-brake warning light works, dash signal indicator works, 4-way flashers do not.

Also, with the e-brake warning (and turn signal) flashing, pulling the 4-way makes everything stop. I tried another 4-way switch- same result. I checked wiring diagrams and everything seems to be connected properly.

I have all LEDs for lights, and Spokes’ flasher relay.

How do I test the 4-way switch?

Thanks,
Tom

A blonde had a flat tire on the interstate.
She eased her car over to the shoulder of the road carefully, got out of the car and opened the trunk.
She took out two cardboard women, unfolded them and stood them at the rear of her car facing oncoming traffic. They looked so lifelike you wouldn’t believe it! They were in trench coats exposing their nude bodies to the approaching drivers.
As she expected, cars started slowing down looking at her lifelike ladies. And of course, traffic started backing up. Everybody was tooting horns and waving like crazy.
It wasn’t long before a state trooper pulled up behind her. He got out of his car and started walking toward her. He was definitely not happy.
“What’s going on here?” he asked.
“My car has a flat tire,” the woman said calmly.
“Well, what the hell are those obscene cardboard women doing here by the road?”
The lady looked flabbergasted that he didn’t know.
“Hellooooo, those are my emergency flashers!”

Have you thought about adding a load to test with. Just an analog test light should do the trick.

Normally LEDs cause a hyper flash issue, and not what you're describing.

I am thinking your output is going no where, but that is just my guess. A probe will let you know.

Thanks, Stephen. I have the LED-appropriate relay... and the turn signals work, so I’m thinking the relay is not the problem. In fact, I have the same exact behavior with the stock relay and put in Spokes’ relay thinking that might fix it- no joy.

I am getting power into the switch. One note: during the rewire it looks as if the “always-on” wire (terminal 30) got connected to switched power, so at this time the flashers wouldn’t work without the key in the on position. I’ll correct that once I get it working.

Where would you suggest to connect the analog load? Is the 4-way switch a simple on-off or is there some funky electrical stuff going on in there?

Check fuse 11. It is used when the 4-way switch is pulled. Or the switch connecting the fuses in the 4-way switch is defective.

My 76 with LED tail lamps / turn signals from Spoke and his flasher relay flashes the single turn signal indicator green lamp along with the flashing brake light when the e-brake is pulled. Turn signals dont make the e-brake light come on though which is good. My issue I can live with though... the OP's issue sounds a bit more problematic!

Not to thread heist, I have to turn on my key to make my hazards work... any ideas??

Thanks for the wiring diagram @spokes very helpful!

Fuse 11 is good- I am getting power at both 15 and 30. I test my switches for continuity on the power side as well as ground and report back

It would seem that the hazard switch was re-wired at some point such that pin 30 does not go to fuse 11 which is powered at all times.

Problem solved. It was the lousy fuse 11. I had blown fuse 9 a few times during all this and finally figured that out (turn signal indicator wire was shorting out). Fuse 11 looked fine so didn’t touch it.

Tonight I was poking around chasing the gremlin and noticed I was getting 12v on the black/red (#30) wire with my volt meter, but touching the same wire didn’t turn on my test light. So, 12 volts but not enough power for a tiny light. Hmmmmm.

Fiddled with the fuse and everything works.



Thanks @spokes for the wiring diagram- it was key to making sure the switch is good (it is.)

On to the next thing.