Different labels but I suspect the same mfg. SOT: because this is on a conversion car.

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This was the first to go. It was installed on the starter solenoid circuit to reduce the load on the switch. I'm guessing the amp load was < 3A. Relay is rated for 10x that amount. Look how misaligned the contact is. It was only contacting on the edge. Both relays #1-would make contact when activated but would not pass enough voltage to work. #2- had misaligned contacts that appear be made of copper and have rounded edges.

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This one controlled the right side fan and was sealed so I cut it open.

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Same issue here with the misaligned contacts. Load on this one is <13A. Both of these relays would pass the bench test when ohming out but neither would pass enough voltage to operate the fan or starter solenoid. I tried t capture the contact point between a set of contacts. It is a very small spec on the bottom side of the middle contact. I'll ask around before buying anymore relays.

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I've found most relays you can buy to be pretty cheap quality.. Ive bought a few 5 post relays for my headlight up/down wiring and every one of them when you squeeze them they fail or wig out.

Anyways... I feel for you!

certainly cheap relays these days, but did you check to make sure that the alternator was not overcharging?

Or, conversely, make sure the voltage is not dropping when energized, causing excessive amperage through the coil.

Find a tyco or P&B relay and you'll be happy

https://www.amazon.com/TE-Connectivity-V232...ial&sr=1-24

George, it's a conversion w/ a single wire 90A alternator. Reads 14.1V on Dakota digital gauge. Voltage is steady with and without fans running. Good tip. I was wondering who made the good ones.

Go solid state

That is what I use on Igor for the DME.

To be honest I didn't know they existed until Stephen mentioned them. Found them on the internet last night. Pricey but worth it if they perform well. Oddly enough, they fail in the closed position where as electro mechanical relays fail in the open position. There are also notations regarding switching problems with the solid state relays. I didn't get into that end too much, though. I think that was more to do with AC relays switching fluorescent fixtures than DC controlling DC circuits. Does anyone have any input on SS relays and harsh environments e.g. moisture & temps?

Give me a few months of driving and I will get back to you.

914 rubber is making a set of them for the old round relays. Looking forward to that, I will replace every one in the -6

They get used a lot in environments that make your 914 driving on a Cali road look tame. Just watch out for Amperage rating and check pin-outs. Sometimes they switch pins for odd reasons.

I am running them in the EG conversion also.

Do you have a protection diode on the contacts? There might be a hefty inductive kick on the contacts when the relay opens.

No, I do not and that is a good point. Kind of like the spike in the starter circuit? If it happens again I think this would be the logical path to pursue. Thx Jerry, I hoped that you'd weigh in on this subject.

Solid state, or grab a handful of Bosch versions at the junkyard. The guy here usually gives them to me for the price of admission ($2)