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bkrantz
I also took apart the intake plenum and throttle body.
bkrantz
Inside the plenum: oily sludge!
djway
Regarding all the Red, what can I say it was the 80's. Girls had big tall hair and us guys painted everything body color.
bkrantz
Still sorting through boxes from the disassembly last fall. This is all the "extra" electrical stuff: an awesome audio system with cassette deck, amp, and 4 speakers; an alarm system that was wired in to about 10 places, at least 2 hidden start disable switches, an ignition start bypass with solenoid, and about 10 miles of wire.

Anybody want some?
bkrantz
Here's the fuel pump, with some red--but not the real RED. The PO did relocate the pump--to inside the right rear fender! It runs with power (or at least makes noise).
bkrantz
Another project: the relay board. Ugly.
bkrantz
The underside is even uglier, and the dielectric material is loose and spontaneously falling out.
bkrantz
A little persuasion, and the stuff comes off. I need to clean this up, check all the leads, and refill with dielectric epxoy.
bkrantz
Next up: the brain box. Another great OP idea, painting it black.
bkrantz
At least the inside looks clean.
bkrantz
I made a first pass at cleaning the brain today, with some acetone.
bkrantz
That took off the black, but left the red (overspray, not the intentional Red).
bkrantz
A follow-up with progress on the brain box, after some careful application of paint remover.
bkrantz
The metal finish is still ugly. Not sure what to try next.
bkrantz
The relay board looks better. Soaking overnight in GoofOff dissolved most of the remaining tar. I have some leads on dielectric potting epoxy, to refill the board and re-insulate all the leads.
bkrantz
The top side also looks better.
bkrantz
Meanwhile, I have continued working on the main harness. I have identified and labeled all the plugs, leads, and components, and searched for more damage to repair. Got as far as the rear firewall. Still optimistic.
bkrantz
Posting this photo here so I can link it to the VIN database. The is the owners manual that came with my car (but obviously not the original).
bkrantz
And the next page.
bkrantz
Oh fudge! While sorting through more boxes of parts I found a section (actually 2 pieces) of engine sheet metal that I forgot. This is the front section.
bkrantz
I wanted to get this to the powder coating shop to include with all the other parts, and so quickly worked to straighten out some bends and dents, and weld one spot. I got to the shop just after 2:30, but they go home at 2pm on Friday.
bkrantz
Back at work on the wiring harness, and I completed my initial cleaning and survey. I think it generally looks good, with just local problems to fix. I have also identified all the connectors and have some sense of where everything goes.
bkrantz
I could not resist starting to fix things. Since I plan to move the fuel pump to the front I want to re-route and extend the existing wires. I started by pulling them from the branch tube that goes to the right side of the engine and battery.
bkrantz
I then used a length of welding wire to snake the pump wires through the snorkel and main tube.
bkrantz
Here are the pump wires, now reaching into the passenger compartment and heading "upstream".
bkrantz
I also worked on the tail light lenses. I was careless with the left one, and broke the lower corner of the reverse light end. Fortunately, I saved the chips.
bkrantz
I found some industrial acrylic welding fluid, that glues by partially dissolving the plastic.
bkrantz
I also found cracks around one of the stud bases. But easy to fix with small drops of weld fluid that wick into the cracks.
bkrantz
The corner looks rough from "below".
bkrantz
But pretty good in normal orientation.
bkrantz
When I checked the right lens, I was surprised to see one stud broken off. I don't know when and how this happened--really!
bkrantz
But relatively easy to repair with the weld compound. Seems reasonably strong after 30 min.
bkrantz
And I also checked the fog lamps. One looks pretty good, except for minor pitting on the lens. Just needs a new gasket.
bkrantz
But the other lamp has major issues, with corrosion in the case and a bent mount.
bkrantz
Plus rust inside the reflector. This one needs a sub.
bkrantz
I took a look at the pedal cluster today. Overall, it looks really good, no rust, and already has bronze bushings.
bkrantz
But the throttle lever has some interesting PO brazing. I will look to replace this.
djway
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 8 2020, 08:09 PM) *

But relatively easy to repair with the weld compound. Seems reasonably strong after 30 min.

Only tighten the absolute minimum required...
bbrock
QUOTE(djway @ Aug 9 2020, 10:55 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 8 2020, 08:09 PM) *

But relatively easy to repair with the weld compound. Seems reasonably strong after 30 min.

Only tighten the absolute minimum required...


I've made that repair on a couple lenses and even more severe breakage. They have held up well, but I do try to be careful to go slow when tightening the retainers and not over tighten.
bkrantz
Have you guys ever replaced the foam gasket around the edge of the tail light lens?
bbrock
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 10 2020, 09:10 PM) *

Have you guys ever replaced the foam gasket around the edge of the tail light lens?


Assume you are talking about the round gasket cord inside the lip of the lens. Yes and no. I tried to replace with the 914Rubber cord but I'm sorry to say it was not acceptable. I'm told the AA gaskets are a dead match for OE so that will be in my next order. You can see the problems with the 914Rubber gasket material here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2801670

There is also a foam gasket between the tail light bucket and chassis. I replaced that with the 914Rubber gaskets and they fit perfectly.
raynekat
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 10 2020, 08:10 PM) *

Have you guys ever replaced the foam gasket around the edge of the tail light lens?


Yes.....does that help? tongue.gif
914 Rubber makes a nice replacement.
bkrantz
Thanks, Brent. You are much more helpful than Doug.
bkrantz
Cleaning wires is getting tedious. I spent about 2 house today, and got done with one long lead and two short ones. Here is a shot showing the before (left) and after (right). The red spots are where the PO paint, from spraying the inside of the trunk, got between the original spiral tape wrapping of the wire bundle.
bkrantz
I carried on today, and finished cleaning the wiring for the trunk. This still need some repair work, with new connectors and a few bits of local replacement wire (plus the leads for the license plate lights).
bkrantz
The wires look pretty good now, and seem intact--just a bit stiff in a few place.
bbrock
Looking good. Try hitting them with some 303 Protectant and they may soften up. Mine did. I also soaked wire with overspray in brake fluid to soften the paint so it cleaned off (being careful not to get the ends of he wire in the fluid). That also seemed to softened the insulation and the harness was still supple a year and a half later when I reinstalled it.
bkrantz
QUOTE(bbrock @ Aug 13 2020, 10:07 PM) *

Looking good. Try hitting them with some 303 Protectant and they may soften up. Mine did. I also soaked wire with overspray in brake fluid to soften the paint so it cleaned off (being careful not to get the ends of he wire in the fluid). That also seemed to softened the insulation and the harness was still supple a year and a half later when I reinstalled it.


Good to know--I will try some of both.
bkrantz
I got into wire repair mode today. Here is the setup, with soldering iron, heat gun, and other stuff.
bkrantz
First up: 2 leads to the ignition switch plug. One was split and connected to new PO leads. The other has a new lead spliced in.
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