Full Version: Rebuiding Inside-out
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Starting with the yellow wire, I carefully removed the crimp connectors.
Then weave the wire cores together.
Then solder.
I did the same for the red lead (and I managed to remember the heat shrink tubing for both).
Slide the tubing into place. This is marine grade with internal adhesive.
Then hit it with the heat gun.
I did the same repair on two leads to the light switch.
Today was another milestone. I went to the powder coat shop to fetch the first batch of refinished components. I used Evolution Powdercoating in Durango--highly recommended.
Checking out all the parts. I remember everything except the heat exchanger ductwork, which got high temp powder coat.
Here's the engine sheet metal, air filter housing, and intake plenum.
Of course, powder coat, like paint, reveals any flaws in the metal. The section where I welded cracks is not perfect, but will work.
Here's the front suspension, with a slightly lumpy steering cover.
And the rear suspension. The biggest miscommunication led to getting the inside of the rear wheel bearing cavity powder coated. I will need to remove this before installing the bearings. The shop did a great job of protecting other areas and all threaded holes.
I got my supply of colored wire (4RCustomsWire) and metric connectors (Bel Metric).
Also a first time to use my fancy crimp tool, with correct jaws fitted.
Here's a test crimp, with a typical spade connector. Looks very correct.
And here's a typical repair: replacing about 6 inches of mangled original wire with the new piece soldered onto the remaining lead, covered with heat shrink tubing, a new connector, and heat shrink on that, too.
For another repair, I replaced a complete section of wire, from one connector to the next. The crimp tool handles double wire without a problem. (The new wire color match is not perfect, tan vs. brown).
New ring terminals for the battery tie-in, crimped and soldered.
Another repair for a mangled lead--I even matched the green wire with white stripe (sort of).
Here are the extensions for the fuel pump wires, attached to the leads that I re-routed through the snorkel. The new wires will eventually run all the way to the relocated pump up front.
If you don't already to this for a single wire terminal I start with the large jaw and crimp then I move to the middle jaw and get a much better result.
Keep on Crimpin.
Keep on Crimpin.
More wire repair today. Here's a replacement for the power lead to the cig lighter.
And after a bit of black marker, the match is better.
This is a real nice example of PO handiwork, a wire spliced into a lead to the left door switch. Presumably, this was for the aftermarket alarm.
Step 1: Replace the mangled section.
Step 2: Insulate the splice, and crimp both leads into a new mini-connector.
Step 3: Insulate the connector, and bundle all the leads in prep for wrapping the harness with new tape.
Here's a real special example. Twinned leads from one of the head light fuses, all melted. A PO short?
Replaced, with some black marker stripes added.
After measuring a friend's 914 (thanks, Mike!) I decided to complete the rear portion of the harness (everything in the trunk).
Here's the wiring laid out to match dimensions marked on the table.
Here's the wiring laid out to match dimensions marked on the table.
The center needs the most work, where I have to rebuild the leads to the license plate lights.
Here are the new wires, with connectors and insulation.
And then wrapped with harness tape (from 914 Rubber).
Wrapping the harness take a Zen mind state, trying to keep the spiral constant. Practice from years of wrapping road bike handlebars helps. I am glad to have one part of the harness done!
That harness looks really nice. 
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 16 2020, 06:38 PM) 
Step 1: Replace the mangled section.
Hello,
I may follow your lead sir to fix mine soon which was cut into half by the center tunnel line. Or maybe use the Heat shrink butt connector.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Thanks, Cairo.
Those butt connectors should work, but for the heavy gauge leads (for higher amp current), soldering might be better.
Any EE types can tell us the truth.
Those butt connectors should work, but for the heavy gauge leads (for higher amp current), soldering might be better.
Any EE types can tell us the truth.
More wire work today. I got some additional materials: super adhesive stretchy rubber tape and paint-on rubber coating, both by 3M. I am using these to patch wires with small nicks or cuts in the insulation.
This makes the repair a little bulky, but I think better than cutting and splicing.
More repairs.
A different kind of repair on the power lead to the left fog light. These are bare wire with some solder tinning, that get clamped in a screw connection.
After
I also stopped by the body shop today, and saw some good progress.
Priming is all done, and spending a day or two for the paint to cure.
Then block sanding can start.
To aid in your Zen state of mind
Ohhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Ohhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Aug 19 2020, 05:11 AM)
Good one. I'll show that to my wife. She's a Buddhist.
Thanks, guys. I can feel the boost in karma.
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