Back to wire work today. I started wrapping the harness with new tape, working forward from the rear firewall.

But working forward, I encountered segments that still have the genius PO undercoating, plus remnants of carpet glue and foam padding.

Unwrapping the original tape leaves spots of undercoat crud. Time for more GoofOff.

I got as far forward as the brake pedal switch. More fun tomorrow!

looking good. I bet this is a job (wire cleaning/wire wrapping) where you are alone and play your favourite music and work away the hours,,,,,

You are correct. I alternate between music and audio books depending on my mood.

Back to work today, cleaning and wrapping "forward" from the brake pedal switch. I am still carrying the leads for the relocated fuel pump forward.

Coming to the "big junction" near the fuse-relay panel. The wires for the fuel pump continue forward, through the big rubber grommet.

Wrapping all the branches at the junction.

I continued with all the wiring under the dash. That finishes everything in the interior and rear.

nice! good job @bktantz!

More forward progress today. Here are all the leads for under the cowl done, except for the wires that will go to the relocated fuel pump. I will finish these after I mount the pump.

I made some progress on the last section, that feeds all the front lights. Slow going due to lots of spots of PO red overspray.

You are doing some great work wow! How are you removing the paint from the wires? Does it remove the markings on the wires when you do it? My harness is in very bad shape similar to yours and I will have to go through this process like you are doing.

I have tried and use different things. The undercoating and greasy dirt come off easiest with GoofOff, but that does not work on paint. For light overspray, acetone works pretty well. For small spots of thicker paint (like between the original tape wrap), I scrape lightly with a new, sharp utility blade, and then use acetone. For really thick paint, I use a standard paint remover, but this does soften the sleeve material, so I use it carefully.

See the example below.

Onto the final section today, working towards the front lights. Here's some nasty PO red (and gold???) overspray.

After scraping and cleaning with acetone.

And the final bit has even more paint.

The last section all wrapped up.

That's it! The main harness all done, except for a few connectors that I will mount when I install the harness in the car.

While on a role, I attacked the ignition harness. This had a crimp connector in the middle of the power lead. In order to pull a new wire through the sleeve, I soldered it to the end of the old wire.

After squirting some soapy water in the first sleeve, I pulled the new wire through.

And then did the same with the second sleeve, to get the new wire to the multi-pin plug.

And then I moved the pin connector from the end of the old wire...

to the new wire.

Here's the pin back in the correct hole in the plug (I hope).

And the plug cap back in place.

And the ignition harness is ready to go (I will install the ring connector on the new wire when I have everything back on the engine).

I don't remember, have you used a continuity tester on each line to confirm first you have a good circuit and that you have the correct wire to each point?
Easiest to check while out.
Excellent work on the harness.

To be honest, I did some testing when I first inspected the harness, but found problems only where I could also see visible damage. After that I got lazy and did not test every wire or connector.

Another day another harness, this time for the alternator. The wires look very good, but the grommets are a bit crusty, and the sleeving is hard and stiff in placement.

I soaked the rubber with 303. I will see if things improve. And I ordered some new sleeve material, and may rebuild this entire harness.

I also started poking around the gauges, and popped them out of the panel.

The speedometer has some spots on the inside of the glass.

And the trip odometer reset does work, but the center digit does not roll consistently with the others. The bezel shows some evidence of prior opening. I may open it up again.

I took a close look (and more) at the center console today. It is basically solid, but needs some work. Check out the PO speaker holes. How else can you get 4 speakers in a 914?

BTW, if anyone wants some vintage electronics, just let me know. Installation not included!

Back to the console. All the original hardware is there.

Here are all the pieces, ready for repair and recovering.

The gauges look OK from the outside, and the bezel rings have never been opened. But the temp gauge has something loose inside rattling around. Oops.

Back in the 80s I had a 914 with two 200watt amps, 2 crossovers, 2 six inch, 2 four inch and two tweeters. All speakers were in the doors.
It was like sitting inside high end headphones.

This car was close, plus a complicated alarm system (with remote) and at least 2 hidden start-defeat switches.

Clifford alarm with micro kill switch, thats the combo

I had some good luck today (I think). Before opening the temp gauge I rotated and tilted it, and a light bulb fell out of the lamp hole. The holder did have another bulb, so this happened some time in the past.

And when I applied some current to the gauge, it responded.

But less luck with the clock. I applied 12 volts but got nothing.

While I was testing my luck, I grabbed the horns. One makes good noise, the other is silent. So, .500 overall.

There are some good articles on repairing the clocks. Looks like yours is the early, self-winding version. There is a low temperature solder joint inside the clock that acts as a fuse which is where they usually fail. On my clock, I just had to remelt the existing solder to reconnect the fuse. After that, a good clean and re-lubricating with clock oil and she has been ticking along just fine.

Thanks, Brent. I was looking at the info online this morning. Yes, I have the early version, with the access cover on the back attached with 3 nuts (one covered with a tamper-resistant cover).

Opened up, and with the classic "blown fuse". The small ring is part of a spring-loaded lever, and has pulled away from the soldered connection, presumably when it over-loaded and heated up.

Like Brent did, I re-attached the ring with the existing blob of low-temp solder.