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bkrantz
Success! Too bad I can't upload a video, showing the balance wheel turning back and forth, the the movement ticking along. The "glass" needs a little cleanup and maybe some polish.
bkrantz
I also made a trip out, first to the powder coat shop to collect the trailing arms, redone so the bearing cavity is properly bare. Any suggestions for metal treatment before pressing the new bearings in?
bkrantz
And then a stop at the body shop. Unfortunately, no progress since last week.
bbrock
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Aug 27 2020, 07:28 PM) *

Success! Too bad I can't upload a video, showing the balance wheel turning back and forth, the the movement ticking along. The "glass" needs a little cleanup and maybe some polish.


cheer.gif Can't remember if I read it in that article, but somewhere I read that the overload typically occurs when the original lubricant gets thick and waxy. Every time you hear that clock softly rewind itself, you will feel a wave of satisfaction now.

On my trailing arms, I just smeared a very thin film of grease to help the new bearings slide in and called it good. Not sure if that was smart or not.
bkrantz
A bit more suspension work today. I cleaned up the axles for the trailing arms. Sorry, I did not get a before picture, but there was a bit of rubber crud stuck on the sections where the old bushings were.

This is after a bit of work with the wire brush, and some 800 grit emery paper.
bkrantz
I found a bit of pitting on one end of each axle--not sure if the inboard or outboard end.
bkrantz
Next up, the steering rack.
bkrantz
I felt quite a bit of play in the rubber coupling.
bkrantz
Here's the problem: the holes in the coupler are just a bit larger than the bushings.
bkrantz
I was able to loosen the lock rings/bellow supports, but one eye-bolt did not want to budge. It took quite a bit of leverage, with a wrench on the flats of the rack and the eye-bolt in the vise.
bkrantz
The rack itself seems solid, with just a tiny perceptible play.
bkrantz
Today, I tackled the rack disassembly. After a visit to the parts washer, it looked a bit cleaner.
bkrantz
First, I removed the the compression cover and parts (compression piston, spring, and shims). Sorry I did not get photos.

Next was the pinion retaining nut and input yoke. Mine came off with strong finger pull.
bkrantz
Here's the pinion shaft seal in place.
bkrantz
I tried to remove this intact, but no dice.
bkrantz
Then I found the retaining ring for the upper pinion shaft shims and bearing.
bkrantz
No problem with snap ring pliers.
bkrantz
I then pried out the pinion shaft. Although even the factory manual suggests prying against the housing flange, I would rather pry against something disposable.
bkrantz
The pinion shaft came out with good news: still lots of viscous grease, and no sign of contamination or drying out.
bkrantz
With the pinion removed, the rack shaft slid out. It also looks in good shape.
bkrantz
I also pressed the old bushings out of the eye bolts.
bkrantz
Easy-peasy with the press. Ready for the replacement bushing kit!
bkrantz
I also took on the mangled retaining ring/bellows support. Not sure how the PO did this.
bkrantz
Anyway, 5 minutes later.
bkrantz
The last thing I did was make some paper templates for the center console pieces. I will probably have these recovered (after I repair the PO speaker holes), and I want to know where the screw holes are.
bkrantz
Besides all the garage work, and sending things out for various services, I am also deep into the hunt for replacement parts, both new and used.

Here's a replacement for the throttle crank arm, and the push-rod that was bent on my car.
bkrantz
I tried mounting some bushings today, starting with the A-arms. My first attempt involved my bench-top press, and supporting the rear end of the arm with a sketchy arrangement of blocks.
bkrantz
Then a bit of garage cooking to soften up the bushings (and heat up the metal parts). Note to married guys: using the camping gear avoids any evil looks in the kitchen.
bkrantz
Unfortunately, my first attempt failed. I ripped the inner edge of the bushing (I think the installation tools closed on each other). And my sketchy press support started to bend the flange on the A-arm. Time to think about plan B.
bkrantz
Waiting for more stuff before playing with bushings, so I cleaned up the pedal cluster. Happily, almost no corrosion.
bkrantz
And some PO already installed bronze bushings.
bkrantz
I pondered using the pedals as they are, but..nah, more stuff for powder coating.
bkrantz
Back in town, and a bit of time to kill--and new toys to try out. To repair threads on one eye bolt, I ordered a 16 x 1.5 metric die. Fortunately, only the first two rounds of threads are messed up at all.
bkrantz
Very quick and easy to cut out any distortion that was binding.
bkrantz
Fixed (enough).
bkrantz
Then I used my new 16 x 1.5 tap, to dress the threaded hole in the rack.
bkrantz
Again, very easy with only very minor torque necessary to bottom out the tap.
bkrantz
Mission accomplished. The eye bolt now threads smoothly into the rack.
bkrantz
I started working on the trailing arms today, with the pivot bushings.
bkrantz
I pushed a bushing onto one end of the pivot.
bkrantz
And then pushed both into the trailing arm.
bkrantz
That left the other end needing a bushing.
bkrantz
So, add some liquid soap...
bkrantz
...and shove the bushing in by hand as far as possible...
bkrantz
...and finish with the press.
bkrantz
All done.
bkrantz
I also took apart the tie rods. More to do on these.
djway
Some things in life are just more pressing than others smile.gif
Looking good.
bkrantz
QUOTE(djway @ Sep 5 2020, 10:57 PM) *

Some things in life are just more pressing than others smile.gif
Looking good.


Indeed. And some presses are more than others (stay tuned).
bkrantz
Time for some 914 wood working today.

Some audiophile PO cut holes in the center console for extra speakers. Because.

Anyway, I want to rescue the console, and started today by filling the holes. I ordered some 9mm plywood. It almost matches the console ply, just a little bit thicker.
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