Full Version: Rebuiding Inside-out
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First, getting the grommet on the left side in place.
And then arranging the harness to the lights.
Including the license plate lights.
I also went back to the passenger compartment, to sort out the wire routing for the parking brake handle switch. The tab for the connector will be on the inside of the cross brace.
Here's my planned routing (but inside the cross brace). Looks like enough wire.
To fish the lead, I used a length of welding wire, starting from the center tunnel.
The end popped out the switch hole on the first try! Luck is better than skill?
That made it easy to pull the switch lead.
This whole thing has left me feeling WIRED 
QUOTE(djway @ Dec 19 2020, 08:33 PM) 
This whole thing has left me feeling WIRED
You and me both. Between disconnecting and removing the harness, cleaning, testing, and repairing it, and now installing it, playing with wires has consumed at least a month!
More work on the front harness today, getting things in place including grommets for both the leads to the fog lights and horns, and to the head lights.
Right side in place, except for the turn signal lead.
Fog light and horn leads out the front.
Getting close to final harness location, with new plastic tubing to cover the body tabs.
And I think I have the front left correct now.
And I think I have the front left correct now.
Left side under the cowl.
Left side of trunk.
Left side of engine compartment.
Finishing up tying down the harness, with the double tabs along the center tunnel.
And under the driver side of the dash.
Lining for front brace openings to protect wires.
Brake line day!
Matching the new SS lines from PMB with the old sections.
Matching the new SS lines from PMB with the old sections.
Cleaning threads.
Rebuilt pressure regulator valve, also from PMB, and first connection.
Right rear line.
Left rear line.
I need the T-junction for the top connection.
Short connection from the front of the tunnel line to the MC.
Front right line.
Front left line.
Another task: the frunk release. New cable housing, fed into the steel dash tube--a tight fit.
Along the inner fender--easy enough to follow the tabs.
I used this hole in the horizontal brace, but decided to roll the edge to protect the housing.
And into the latch.
Progress on the latest list.
Great documentation on the brake lines. I need to install PMB hard lines on the Willow car and will follow your lead - thanks!
Your car...and build...looks amazing. Congrats! I'm inspired...
QUOTE(iankarr @ Dec 24 2020, 11:07 AM)
Your car...and build...looks amazing. Congrats! I'm inspired...
Thanks, Ian. I'm still inspired, too!
More wiring details: grommets and leads for the rear license plate lights.
I also finished up the frunk release.
Here are the handle and receiver, cleaned up. I made a run to Home Depot for a 4mm pan head bolt.
Here are the handle and receiver, cleaned up. I made a run to Home Depot for a 4mm pan head bolt.
Here's the pull wire, before trimming.
And the latch mounted in place.
With the release handle ready for action.
And then I started on the gear shift lever, in prep for installing this and the tunnel shift rod.
That's 50 year old vintage grease.
After initial cleaning. I tried to use my parts washer, but it sits outside and the temp this morning was -2F, and the solvent was not so useful.
I need to order a circlip before I can rebuild the shift lever (see the clever PO substitution of a slice of rubber tubing for the lost circlip). So I decided to mount the pedals.
Here is my pedal cluster, that I previously rebuilt, with powder-coated parts.
Here is my pedal cluster, that I previously rebuilt, with powder-coated parts.
Pedals in place, with shiny new hardware.
I then tackled preparing the new master cylinder. Here's the new 19mm MC from 914 Rubber, along with all the old parts.
Step 1, transfer the inner washers for the supply lines.
And then re-install the new rubber grommets (old on the left, new on the right).
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