Cleaned up and almost ready to install.

Next step on the dash: installing the front plate. I used 3M high strength double-sided auto adhesive tape.

Stuck on, located by the holes for switches, etc.

Dash is starting to look like a dash.

I pulled out the original glove box. Its in pretty good shape, including the inner flocking, but has a bit of a bow along the front edge.

I let the fiberboard soak and absorb some water, and then clamped the bowed edge--I hope it dries straight.

I did one by holding it over a steaming pot of soup

I have thought of the thinned penetrating epoxies as a means of repairing fiberboard. They are designed to repair dry rotted wood by soaking in and then setting.

Seems would work on fiber board also. Get Rot is a brand name Among others https://www.amazon.com/Boat-Git-Rot-Penetra...998&sr=8-30

Have planned to use it to repair/re-enforce my back pad when I get around to it. Anyone have any experience with it?

Come on, you have to be more specific--what kind of soup?

Large pot homemade garden vegetable.

I've used old fashioned wood glue to reinforce and repair the fiber board. For areas that are intact but floppy, I spritzed down the area to dampen with water and then painted over with wood glue to sort of dissolve int the dampness and soak into the fibers. To repair areas where chunks of fiber have come off but I still have them, I used the same technique but reinforced the repair with torn strips of brown paper applied like paper mache on both sides of the board. I then laid wax paper over the repair and clamped to hold the shape until dry. Worked great.

I also straightened my glove box using the same process a bkrantz. Also works great but I guess I missed out on the soup going that route.

[/quote] I’ve used old fashioned wood glue to reinforce and repair the fiber board. For areas that are intact but floppy, I spritzed down the area to dampen with water and then painted over with wood glue to sort of dissolve int the dampness and soak into the fibers. To repair areas where chunks of fiber have come off but I still have them, I used the same technique but reinforced the repair with torn strips of brown paper applied like paper mache on both sides of the board. I then laid wax paper over the repair and clamped to hold the shape until dry. Worked great.

I also straightened my glove box using the same process a bkrantz. Also works great but I guess I missed out on the soup going that route.
[/quote]

That is a great idea. I think the trick is to get the adhesive of choice to soak into the fiberboard. Any similar paper, like a brown paper bag, would supply the reinforcing fibers

Basically a composite structure - fiber elements embedded in a bonding matrix. Not that it matters, but I wonder what the original adhesive used in fiberboard was?

I’ll File the wood glue one away in the memory bank for future use!

Well, here's my glove box after drying in the clamps. Pretty straight. And since it only had a few small cracks, I will not try any glue or resin (for now).

Before I started working on the dash, I installed the "new" reflector panel I got from KevinW for the right tail light. Thanks again, Kevin.

After cleaning up the old glue and a bit of sanding to smooth out the mounting tabs, I glued it in place. Tail lights are now complete, except for LED bulbs.

Now, on to the dash. Here are the pieces for the glove box lock, and the door handle.

Lock installed

Door with handle, and mounting hardware. The "original" pivot screws are a mixed pair, so I dug into my hardware stash for some that match.

Here's the door installed. Much easier with the dash on the work table.

Viewed from the outside--looks even.

Also easier to install the actual box now.

OK, time for the 914 Rubber replacement dash top. Again, I think I prefer to install this before mounting the dash in the car, or at least see how everything fits.

First fitting attempt. The nylon mounting studs across the top of the dash fit well, along with the center stud on the face edge, but the stud mounts on the left and right side are a bit off. Time to enlarge the holes just a bit.

I also realized that the ash tray bracket has to go on before the dash top.

Fitting attempt number two. All the studs and holes now line up, and the front looks good.

The windshield side is not bad, but a few spots are less than great.

The match between the top and the new padded vinyl is good along the straight segments on right and left.

But along the instrument cowl, the gap is a bit large and shows the edge of the dash top, which is a little rough.

The biggest gap is on the sides of the cowl. I have a few ideas to fix this.

Just for fun, and to check the fit, I installed the bottom dash knee bolster.

I know the lower bolster has to come off to install the dash, but I like seeing how the whole thing will look.

A few more things to deal with. The ash tray front is low, even with the bracket adjusted all the way up.

And the side gaps are a bit big.

Compared to my gaps here.....yours look stellar.
Wouldn't sweat it too much.

Looks great. After the fact, there's a re-flocking kit available for the glove box. I haven't done it (yet), but I've seen the results from some other members' applications and they turned out nice.

Doug, I am way beyond being able to ignore things. (Help!)

Big day today--installing the dash. I got the top studs into their holes, and then bolted the underside bracket.

Then the top studs, accessed from the frunk side.

Then the side screws.

And done! (I hope)

From the front. I still need to deal with the gap around the instrument cowl.

One more! I am excited since I have been waiting to get on with installing the blower, all the switches and gauges, and then testing the electrical system.

You better paint these two spots black.Click to view attachment

Bob, your work and attention to detail is amazing...you like a number of other Teeners in our World are amazing! Thanks for posting such great images as well....you have me looking to remove my Muffler Shield and now and cleaning everything up underneath for sure.

I will be sitting down over the weekend and likely longer to go back and read your whole thread!

Much thanks, Grant

Thanks for the tip, ElCee.

And thanks, Grant. Glad to share. Most days taking photos as I work keeps me steady.

OK, add another error to my record. As I started to feed all the wiring across the inside of the dash, and install the pull switches left of the steering wheel, I found this. Can you figure out what I did wrong?

After I mounted the front plate to the dash frame, I cut out all the holes in the dash face, without thinking. On my car, switches fill the 3 holes left of the steering wheel, and the cigarette lighter goes in the big hole on the right. But now I have 2 extra holes!

While I think about what to do with the dash, I got going on the targa hoop vinyl and trim. A couple of weeks ago, I polished some aluminum trim, including the pieces that mount along the window sides of the sails. But I left the metal unprotected. Rather than clear coat, I decided to try a metal polish.

We will see how this stuff holds up to time and weather.

On to installing the vinyl. I started with the top piece, and masked off the surrounding area.