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bkrantz
One thing I noticed is that the bearing shells do no sit evenly. On the rod half, the bearing protrudes just a bit.
bkrantz
On the cap side, the bearing is just a little short.
bkrantz
I finished checking the other rod bearing. All pretty consistent, with about 0.0018 inch bearing clearance.
bkrantz
And about 0.016 inch side clearance.
bkrantz
I got a small box of misc parts from AA. Just part of the endless list of stuff missing, gone missing, or otherwise necessary.
bkrantz
I am probably excessive if not OCD, but I am happy to have the covers for the rear caliper outer adjusters.
bkrantz
And happy to find the retainer for the cigarette lighter socket.
bkrantz
I had used a hose clamp as a temporary fix, but this is better.
bkrantz
Ready to light 'en up. (at least once I connect a battery)
bkrantz
Now I have 2 retaining clamps on both air mixing boxes.
bkrantz
That helped with the alignment of the defroster vent on the driver side.
bkrantz
Back to restoring vinyl parts. So far I have tried both of these products, that both use the "restore" word.
bkrantz
I have tried double applications, and overnight soaking, but can't see any real improvement in how brittle the old vinyl feels.
bkrantz
Until I find a magic vinyl restoring potion, I will go ahead with what I have. I used the 3M stuff, but it left a high shine.
bkrantz
To cut the shine, I used some 303 cleaner.
bkrantz
Still a bit shiny, but better.
iankarr
I've heard that rubbing mineral oil into vinyl and leting it seep in can soften things up. Haven't tried it though...
bkrantz
Lower dash pad installed (for now). Looks more complete, and I like the contrast of the gray perf vinyl center.
bkrantz
But the fit with the top pad is a bit sloppy on the ends.
bkrantz
Time for more welting?
bkrantz
Meanwhile, I got out the windshield washer plumbing.
bkrantz
To install the squirters, the check valves have to come off.
bkrantz
Then the squirters get inserted, and wiggled about to seat the rubber flange.
bkrantz
From below. I had to wiggle this one a bit more. Note this also has the check valve re-installed.
bkrantz
I then ran the tubing, mostly following the wiring harness behind the air box. Hidden under the vent hose is the T-fitting that supplies the right side squirter.
bkrantz
Plumbing under the reservoir.
bkrantz
And with the reservoir removed.
bkrantz
Now for the reservoir cap. Of course, this was originally set up to feed air pressure from the spare tire. Now I need it to vent to the atmosphere, but not allow fluid to slosh out.
bkrantz
Nothing to lose, so I cut the valve in half.
bkrantz
That reveals the internal valve--that I don't need.
bkrantz
Here's the top. Both the barbed fitting and the open hole pass air.
bkrantz
For now, I am not sure, but I think I will plug the hole and route a bit of tubing from the barbed fitting to prevent any fluid coming out, especially under braking.
bbrock
What about installing one of these in that vent tubing? https://www.amazon.com/1-4-Barbed-Check-Valve/dp/B01EMCPG2I
IPB Image

You could even use black rubber tubing and route it to look like stock if you are CW like me. beer.gif
euro911
That's what I was thinking, but I wonder how much vacuum pressure in the tank will allow it to open? idea.gif

Maybe tying a loop in the vent tubing would work better - less resistance unsure.gif
DRPHIL914
i am getting ready to do the exact same thing. nice detailed pics. i had not thought about cutting the valve body open. i ordered a 911 bottle supply so i could use the top opening for both vent and supply, and just cap off the bottom supply feed . but now i am rethinking that as the top cap for a 911 bottle used a slightly different size and threading

bkrantz
Well, it probably had to happen, but I found a body issue that I forgot to address before getting the paint work done.

When I re-installed the right front fender, I made sure the seam between the fender and the cowl was open at the bottom so that water that gets under the seal can drain out. I meant to do the same thing on the left side but forgot. When I was thinking about installing the seal today, I remembered.

I inspected the bottom of the left seam and found some light rust. So that launched a recovery project.
bkrantz
Right now, any water would be trapped, and will add to the visible rust.
bkrantz
I removed the original seam sealer on the bottom side, and used some mini tools to scrape open the seam from the top.
bkrantz
Eventually I got most of the seam open. Here's light showing from below.
bkrantz
I got out the Ospho and a syringe.
bkrantz
And then treated the seam from above and below a few times. I will think about other treatment and paint tomorrow.
Cairo94507
Good catch. That should take care of it. beerchug.gif
bkrantz
QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Apr 26 2021, 06:58 AM) *

Good catch. That should take care of it. beerchug.gif


I hope so!
bkrantz
I applied a healthy dose of primer, from above.
bkrantz
And below.
bkrantz
Then a first coat of yellow.
bkrantz
Going back to last week, when I mounted the lower dash pad (knee pad) I was unhappy with the gaps at the tops of the side sections. I pulled the pad off, and then got out the same welting material I used to fill the gap I had around the instrument cowl part of the upper dash pad. I cut 2 sections and made some V-cuts to make bending around the corners easier.
bkrantz
I mounted these with all-purpose adhesive and 3/8 inch staples.
bkrantz
Left side.
bkrantz
Right side. I also glued a small break in the corner of the side panel.
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