Then I made my own jumper for the indicator lamps, following Spoke's design.

Plus a 2 into 1 spade connector.

The new ground jumper installed, connecting the indicator lamps to the ground terminal on the back of the tach.

Success! Here are both indicators on with the emergency flashers on. They also work individually with the turn signals on. And I had to invert the left and right wires to reconcile the circuit change in the new flasher relay.

I then checked out just about every other switch and component, and it looks like everything works--so far.

One last detail today: I got out the new front fender gap seals.

I installed them both, but left them uncut to see if they shrink a bit with time.

Looking beautiful.

Fantastic progress Bob. I just back from Colorado and sent my badly butchered wiring harness back here to Texas. Will be referring back to your wiring build to hopefully make a working harness.

Hope the head rebuild goes well. Cant wait to see the next phase.

Also still dealing with a butchered wiring harness. It's very frustrating when people don't understand what they are messing with.

Very nice! Love catching up on this thread.

Our project has both turn signals and the 4 way flashers working, but not the indicator lights are not lighting. is there a separate feed for the indicator lights.

BTW: looks great

Sounds like you have the same problem I had. The positive feeds to the left and right indicator lights in the tach (black/green and black/white wires, from the hazard switch) were working but the ground was not. I added the ground as per the design of Spoke and got the indicators to work.

Thanks. The wire harness work was the most tedious part of the project so far. But now I am happy that I spent weeks with the harness laid out on a big table, and traced every wire and connection, and fixed everything that looked bad.

Fuel pump runs (with the correct connection tab on the relay board grounded).

Here's my idea for moving the interior light to the ashtray slot. Seems like a good place for a cabin light.

I mocked up an insert that will hold the light fixture.

This could work.

Now to fab this, starting with some aluminum sheet metal.

Here's the new bit of harness to extend the interior light leads. I already re-routed the existing wires from up between the seats to forward along the center tunnel.

I ran the extension to follow the existing harness, behind the pedals and up under the dash.

Ending up by the ashtray slot.

Thank you Bob, could this be as simple as pulling the speedo and adding a ground wire?

On mine, I pulled the tach, and removed the "ground" from the indicator lights (blue and white wire). I then added a ground jumper connecting both lights and the ground connection at the main bus on the tach.

Here's the new interior light ash-tray fitting in aluminum. The second piece will attach the lamp holder to the underside of the original ash tray slide.

More electrical testing. I could not get any voltage from contact in the cig lighter, and so pulled it out.

I guess I had "temporarily" installed it without checking or cleaning it. Pretty nasty inside.

And here it is all apart. Time to let the contact plate soak in Evaporust.

One mark in the loss category, at least for now: my clock stopped working.

Clock follow-up: when I connected the battery today, at first the clock did not run. Later it started ticking. So, I have a part-time clock?

Back to the cig lighter, I pulled the lighter section apart, and cleaned the components.

With all the rust and crud gone, I re-installed the lighter socket and tested the power--success!

Now I have a functional cig lighter. I never expect to light any cigs, but it might be handy as a power outlet.

And then back to my new interior light holder. Here is the internal bracket piece, screwed into the underside of the slide.

One more temp fitting.

To get the two pieces to stick in the right position temporarily, I got out my gallon of contact cement.

Here are the two pieces stuck together.

Final test fit. I think this will work, but it looks kinda plain.

I found something that fits--what do you guys think? I would use a black logo over brushed aluminum.

Moving along my shelf of parts, I checked the key in the door latches I removed way back in the beginning. I have 2 keys. The more warn key opens one door lock, but only the less warn key opens the other. Both keys work in the ignition.

Next on the shelf was the box of seat belt parts. I had the original webbing replaced, and with a little color for the interior.

First, I got the order of parts correct.

I then made sure the internal spring in the reel was fully wound, and then inserted the belt end.

This pin retains the belt end in the spool center.

Here's the spool all set with the new belt.

I also got new labels for the release buttons.

Better. Note that I removed the plastic sheath and wires for the belt interlock warning system.

Now to sort out the mounting hardware. I think I have the correct parts for the buckles.

And for the shoulder yokes.

But the correct pieces for the belt anchor are a mystery. Here are parts that came off the car, plus some others that I sourced.

And to add to the confusion, I dug through my old parts for the box of belt hardware, including eye-bolts from my racing days. In the bag I found 3 more 914 mounting bolts.