Back to engine work today. I tried to mount the #3 cylinder, and found interference between the engine stand yoke and a cooling fin.

More importantly, I realized that the yoke blocks access of the piston pin for #3.

How to get the engine off the stand so I can work on the yoke? Without getting out my hoist, I built up a support from miscellaneous stuff.

Engine off. BTW, I did screw together the various bits of lumber.

After some grinding.

It works.

Yes, I do realize I could shift the yoke to the other half of the case and not have clearance problems, but that would be too easy.

That let me mount P&C #3 and #4. I did notice that the cylinder on #3 seemed to rock a bit against the case. And after I did a quick deck height measurement, #4 was about .02 inch more than all the others.

I pulled #3 and #4 off, and found small raised edges around the outside of the machined surfaces of the case cylinder holes. The new cylinders seem to be a bit wider and are sitting on the edges instead of square on the machined circles.

I did not want to do any grinding or sanding, and so got out a sharp utility blade and trimmed the raised edges where they might interfere. That made the #3 cylinder sit square without rocking. I still need to work on the #4 seat.

A very interesting thread just got REALLY interesting. I'm pretty sure my car is destined for this treatment so will be watching with great interest!

Nice work as always! Very interested in the EFI set up. If I can’t figure out my electrical gremlins, I may be going that route.

I know that getting the Dub Shop kit installed and tuned will take some work, but I decided that would be more fun, and give me better results, that fighting with the D-jet system.

I took care of the raised edge on the #4 opening, so the cylinder sits flat. And then I did a quick measurement of deck height, using my caliper with a T-bar attachment. My initial measurements:

#1, .068"
#2, .067"
#3, .067"
#4, .072"

These are a bit bigger than I want, and #4 is still trying to cause trouble. I need to set up and measure more carefully, and then see.

I got my cowl braces back from the paint shop.

I pulled the gas tank out again, and installed the right side brace.

And the left side brace.

Then I got out the frunk hinges. One of these was also at the paint shop.

I installed those with new pivot bolts, and a bit of grease. This photo shows the repair above the hinge I had to make since the PO let the original hinges get bent and open up into the cowl.

Then I got out the frunk lid springs.

Here's my version of using a pry bar against the strut top bushing to pull the spring into place. I put the spring into the second notch for now.

Both hinges ready for the frunk lid, once I get the gas tank installed for real.

I cobbled up a way to use my dial gauge to measure deck height. Here is #3, measuring .066". Again, my preliminary target is about .040".

And #4, measuring .073". The other two were in that range.

Soooo....I decided that I need to get the case decked, and to tear it all apart. So much for the weeks I have spent getting it all together.

Let the tear down begin! (starting at about 10am)

Flywheel off.

Bottom stuff off.

Case split (after a newbie 10 minutes trying to get the case halves apart with one bolt still in place--duh!).

Cam and crank out.

Bearings out, bagged, and keeping track of all the pins.

Empty case, right half.

After a visit to the parts washer, I got most of the sealant and assembly lube off.

(having trouble with filespace--I guess I can add the photos later)

Then I got to use my new stud remover tools.

Removing the main cylinder retaining studs.

Cylinder studs out.

I then removed all the other studs, external and internal. The case halves are completely stripped, except for the two locating pins and the oil dipstick tube.

@bkrantz , Sorry you have to go through the extra work. I can't tell you how many things I've had to redo on my car. Still you're making great progress, kuddos for doing it right!

Sorry about the step backward Bob. But the fact that you caught the decking problem will make a huge difference in the end result. Keep up the great restoration work. It gives us all insight and inspiration.

Thanks, guys. I would indeed prefer to do it right. Now to get the machine work done.

Got a new horn button. I would rather that my Nardi steering wheel (yeah, I know, heresy) have a Porsche crest and not a Nardi logo). Besides, it will be the only crest on the car.

Sorry you had to backtrack, but it’s all part of the fun right? Just curious… Are you using AA pistons? I found that the distance between the wrist pin and the top of the piston on AA is shorter than on KB pistons so the AA result in about .030 more deck height. When I switched to KB, the deck height was perfect. Only writing this here for future readers of the thread. You won’t regret getting the case decked and making sure that everything is perfect. The rest of your car is! Short term pain equals long-term gain. I like to call things like this “tuition” rather than a setback . Amazing work as always…

Hi, Ian. AA Biral cylinders and JE forged pistons, sourced from Aircooled.net.

I am not too bummed about back-tracking. To enjoy this build means trying to do things right.

Last bit of case prep for the machine shop: removing the oil dipstick tube. I measured the exposed tube length at least 3 times (and wrote it down somewhere).

I know some people have tapped it out from the inside, but I decided to try pulling it.

This was the best in my shop fit for an internal screw, a 5/16" structural fastener.

Screw in place, with just a bit of resistance while twisting.

Ready to pull.

It took about 3 moderate whacks with the puller, and the tube came out. BTW, I did squirt some Kroil at the tube base about 48 hours ago.

The tube could be used again, but looks a bit lumpy. I will see about making a replacement.

The case is essentially fully stripped of hardware, and ready for machine work.

Speaking of machine work, I have both heads with all exhaust studs now pointing in the right direction.

This is where the shop welded in new aluminum and drilled and tapped a new stud hole. I still need to clean up the exhaust gasket surface a bit.

New clear tubing for the gas filler overflow, 19 mm ID, 24 mm OD.