With the gears out of the way, off with the old bearing...

And on with the new.

Then a quick bake in the toaster oven to heat the gear, so it literally slides on.

Plus the spacer, distributor gear, and cir-clip. The crank is ready.

Before installing the rest of the new bearings and crank, I remembered the bearing pins.

The the #2 bearing halves in both case halves.

I dropped the crank in place. No camshaft or other stuff now.

And then bolted the other side in place. The crank spins easy, so I think I am ready to install the pistons and cylinders and see about deck height.

I took advantage of my son's visit, and opened the body part vault (AKA my downstairs closet) and got out the frunk lid.

With extra hands, it was easy to bolt the lid to the hinges.

We then spent about 30 minutes getting the lid aligned and leveled.

Here's the re-plated latch installed.

I am pretty happy with how the lid fits, even with the new gasket. The right headlight also looks good, and the left one needs a little work.

Very well documented Bob.

Thanks for posting

I had time today to get the pistons and cylinders mounted on the case (again, built with just the crank).

Tomorrow, I can get serious about measuring the deck height (again).

No pictures, but I made a first round of deck height measurements today. I found a range of .037 to .041. That's in the target range I want.

Great progress Bob, will you be using a "head gasket"

Based on what I hear from my vendors and others on 914World, no.

I finished deck height and other measurements. Taking my time with many repeats, I got deck heights of .036 to 0.38 (and a few times .040). This sounds like a minimum.

Once done measuring, I took off the cylinders and opened the case again, so I can build the engine for real.

I like that red sealant you use. I have been using it to seal up some leaks and it has worked great.

Engine build 2 continued.

Here's the cam shaft (Web Cams #86) and bearings, including the second thrust bearing.

Cam bearings and shaft installed in the right half. The blue tape is a reminder to install the cam plug when I put the case halves together.

Getting the left half ready. Here are the cam bearings installed.

And the oil pick-up.

And the baffle plate with edge seals.

I took the opportunity to check the oil pump clearance again.

I got at least .030" between the back of the pump case and the cam gear bolts, without a gasket.

Time to put the case together for the 3rd (4th?) time. And this time I have switched to 574 sealant.

Right case half with a thin smear of sealant, ready for the through-bolts (also with a bit of sealant this time).

All bolted together and torqued up. Now I need my new cylinder heads--more about them later.

Meanwhile, I got started on another project. This is the hidden system, based on a Clarion CMS20.

The main box is pretty light and compact, and provides AM-FM and both USB and Bluetooth streaming, and can be mounted remotely. The control box connects via cable.

My plan so far: mount the remote box inside the center console, behind the gauges.

This should have plenty of clearance.

first song you play must be Mellow Yellow by Donovan

To mount the control in the arm rest I had to punch a hole in the bottom big enough for the cable plug.

Another chance to use my industrial Velcro.

Another test fit for the console with hidden head unit.

And the arm rest with control unit.

The control box in the arm rest feels a little wobbly, and so I made a brace to support the rear half. This will also keep stuff in the storage area from rolling forward under the control (and falling out of the hole I cut in the bottom). The quick "satin" paint job turned out too shiny. I need to find a scrap of black vinyl.

I also installed the gauges in the center panel, so that will be ready once I have the sound system wiring done.

May I ask why you changed to a different case sealant?

The Permatex was not setting up fully where not clamped and removed from oxygen. I found a few large blobs that spilled from the seam on the inside of the case, and I was concerned they would end up in some small oil passage.

First today, a bit more work on the interior. Here is the arm rest brace below the Clarion control box. Still too shiny.

I re-installed the center console, including the bracket that mounts to the underside of the dash.

Then I got back to work on my engine re-rebuild. To set the crank axial play I got out the shims that worked for the first rebuild.

I started with the two original shims that worked last time. But the measured play of .012" means I need a third shim of .008". I don't have that, and I don't think its available.

So I switched to the two new shims I have, that are the thinnest in my collection. I measured .016" of play, so I need a .012" shim.