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bkrantz
Now the hood stays up.
bkrantz
I found a problem with the console shift panel. The mounting clip likes to poke up against the vinyl cover.
bkrantz
To keep the clip down, I teased open the vinyl along the edge and inserted a thin washer.
bkrantz
The last thing I need to do is attach the shift lever boot. But the replacement I bough last year is falling apart, and the thin outer layer has separated from the inner material. Very disappointing.
Morph914
I think I have a decent one, I can take pictures for you tomorrow. If you want it it’s yours, no charge!
bkrantz
QUOTE(Morph914 @ Sep 9 2021, 08:15 PM) *

I think I have a decent one, I can take pictures for you tomorrow. If you want it it’s yours, no charge!


Thanks--let me know if you get pics.
Morph914
I thought I had the leather boot, but this is what I found. You are welcome to it if you can use. If I find the leather boot I'll let you know.

Click to view attachment
bkrantz
QUOTE(Morph914 @ Sep 10 2021, 10:37 AM) *

I thought I had the leather boot, but this is what I found. You are welcome to it if you can use. If I find the leather boot I'll let you know.

Click to view attachment


Yes, please. I think I need that for inside the leather boot. I will send you a PM with my address. And thanks!
Morph914
Headed your way, pm sent
bkrantz
I got my 7.2 and 7.3 mm rods, so I went back to making a new oil dipstick tube.
bkrantz
Like last time, I ground a short taper into one end of the rod, and then heated the tubing one small bit at a time while tapping it onto the rod.
bkrantz
I cut the tube to length, and then made a flare at the upper end with a tapered center punch.
bkrantz
The new tube is not perfect, but I like it better than the original.
bkrantz
Just to test, it seems like a properly snug fit in the case hole. I will install this later when it will not be in the way.
bkrantz
A different topic today: new custom floor panel for the frunk.

I stopped by Home Depot for a sheet of 11/32 plywood, just a bit thicker than the original. And only $4000 (kidding).
bkrantz
Laying out based on my cardboard template, with a few more tweaks.
bkrantz
And then time to get out some tools that I seldom use: hole saws and jig saw.
bkrantz
All finished with rough cutting.
bkrantz
I decided to make the floor float over the spare tire, so it needs some shelf supports, made from 1" aluminum angle.
bkrantz
I mounted the supports on either side, with heavy duty 3M adhesive tape.
bkrantz
Here's how the floor panel fits. I plan to cover this with Perlon.
bkrantz
A check on the spare tire space: almost 7 inches deep.
iankarr
Awesome idea and work, as usual. You should offer these for sale!
bkrantz
Thanks, Ian. But that would be too much like work.
bkrantz
Since my new heads are due to arrive this week, I decided to get back on the engine build. Digging around in the new parts box, I found this. It fell out of the bigger bag where I have all the engine seals. At least I don't have to wait for the new one I ordered.
bkrantz
At least the new hub retaining bolts arrived, with the serrations under the head like the original. Now I have 4 spares.
bkrantz
Seems like the right O-ring.
bkrantz
Hub installed and torqued.
bkrantz
I dug around in the box of miscellaneous engine parts and came up with the oil temp sender and lead. The wire has seen better days, and I will make a new one.
bkrantz
Sender, with seal rings old and new.
bkrantz
Sender installed.
bkrantz
Cover with grommet (not yet poked for a hole) and seal rings.
bkrantz
Cover installed temporarily. I will make a new lead and attach that , but only after I get done with most of the engine build.
bkrantz
I also found a spare 8 mm copper washer.
bkrantz
That seals up the distributor bracket hole. Not needed since I will eventually run an electronic ignition. The kit includes a plug for the dizzy hole.
bkrantz
One more project today: making an adjustable pushrod for measuring the proper length (once I install the heads and valve train).
bkrantz
As many people have done before, it was easy to run a M6 tap into the cut ends.
bkrantz
Ready to use.
bkrantz
Back to work on the frunk floor panel. Here it is sanded.
bkrantz
And painted.
bkrantz
Once I get Perlon material, I will cover the top side.
bkrantz
Big day: installing the first part of the Dubshop Megasquirt EFI and ignition.

This is the crank sensor kit, with a Hall sensor and trigger wheel.
bkrantz
First attempt to fit the toothed wheel, and the center hole is too small, by about 0.1 mm.
bkrantz
Some light filing and smoothing, and...
bkrantz
It now slides onto the hub, but it rocks a bit and does not sit flat. I confirmed this with a machined straight edge.
bkrantz
After some rounds of light hammering and checking, I got the wheel to mount flat.
bkrantz
Next, I mounted the sensor to the supplied bracket--cool Dubshop logo cut-out.
bkrantz
The bracket mounts using two of the case edge bolts. It can slide about 10mm forward and back. The sensor can also adjust closer to the crank axis.
bkrantz
The desired clearance is less than 3 mm, and I aimed for just less than 2 mm.
bkrantz
I got about 1.8 mm.
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