With the wheel temporarily bolted to the fan hub, its all ready for initial testing.

Here's the setup for testing the signal, with 12 V to the sensor, and then a voltmeter across the sensor output lead.

Tooth over the sensor, should be under 0.25 V.

Check.

Gap over the sensor, should be 12 V.

Check (the battery is a bit low).

And I cycled the entire wheel, and got consistent output.

Let night, UPS brought my new Hoffman heads, by way of LN Engineering.

Very sexy, right?

I was going to wait until Saturday, but could not resist. I checked all the fits, and rechecked the deck height, and then started putting the P&C on for real. That includes piston pin retaining clips. First one on the bench is easy.

Second one is a bit harder.

For mounting the cylinders, I used a thin smear of 5900 at the base.

Left head mounted and torqued.

More engine!

looking good! are you doing 96's with those heads? (are those HAM1 heads)
good stuff for sure, i was on the list to get some on his next batch, but he kind of dropped the ball on me and i had to go a different direction. Just got my motor in the car this weekend, good luck to ya ! what is your break in proceedure for cam and bearning break in?

Phil

RS+ heads, from LN.

Not sure about break in, I am still thinking about assembly!

I got started on the rocker arms today. Here is the kit from Tabari Andrade, who modified my rockers and shaft supports, and supplied new swivel adjusters, shafts, and shims.

That includes several shims in various sizes.

Here is the first mock-up for cylinder #1, following the rule of having a thick shim to the right of each rocker.

First test fit. My goal was to align each rocker just to the right of each valve stem center.

It may not look it, but the hole for the adjuster is offset a bit to the right.

Here is the initial gap. I iterated on filling the gap with shims and maintaining the slight offset of the rocker.

Besides the offset rocker alignment, I aimed for .004" freeplay in the entire stack of rockers and shims.

Left side done.

And right side.

At the end, I used all the new shims except one .004", plus I had to scrounge one of my original rocker shaft shims.

Before going further, I did remember that the sheet metal baffles for under the cylinders need to mount before push rod tubes.

But I did not remember that the brial cylinders have wider fins, so the baffle edges interfere.

So, some quick surgery, using shears to cut to rough clearance.

And then the mini drum sander on my Dremel.

Getting there.

Fits!

Time now for lifters!

Cam lube on the end (and assembly lube on the body and bore).

Then I dropped the lifters in.

And plugged the holes.

Now for adjusters, new 10 mm swivel feet. (And old nuts for now.)

Adjusters installed.

So then I started to learn about push rod tubes and optimizing length. Here is my adjustable rod in the intake for cylinder #1.

And my setup for the dial gauge on the valve spring retainer.

After some quick trials, I measured .427" lift. Spec lift is .423"

And the alignment at half-lift looks good.

I have to catch up on keeping the list current.

I spent more time today in pushrod hell. See my new thread for that, and my questions.

After I gave up on pushrods for today, I refined my rocker offset and spacers.

I also got a gift package from Morph914 (thanks again!).

I was able to install the shift lever rubber boot!

Did you get the pushrod tube spacers? I assume you need them since you are measuring for rods.

Not sure what those are--can you elaborate?

Still playing with rocker arms and pushrods. I tried using stock rods with washers acting as spacers under the shaft supports.

I took a break from pushrods today, and opened the latest package I got from the powder coat shop.

Seat bottom frames!

I had them coat everything, including the rails. Before, the fit with the sliders was a little sloppy, so I figured the coating would fill the gaps.