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bkrantz
Tapped into place, within a half mm of the original height.
bkrantz
Left side front duct, and rubber grommet for thermostat cable.
bkrantz
In place.
bkrantz
Test fit of the rear blower housing half.
bkrantz
But two of the studs project out too far.
bkrantz
I went back to my notes, and reset all the studs so they project 22 mm.
bkrantz
All better now.
bkrantz
Just to test the clearance, I got the fan and the spacer.
bkrantz
Seems right.
bkrantz
Test fit of the thermostat cable.
bkrantz
Flaps correct for cold engine.
bkrantz
Just for fun, I hit the thermostat with a heat gun.
bkrantz
Flaps now correct for a hot engine.
bkrantz
Since the thermostat cable looks just like a bike shifter cable, I got out my bike cable shears.
bkrantz
Then a bike cable end cap.
bkrantz
Should be all set.
bkrantz
With the rear housing half mounted, I got the oil cooler bracket.
bkrantz
Installed.
bkrantz
Now for the alternator duct.
bkrantz
New replacement rubber duct.
bkrantz
But the fit is kinda loose. Note the gap at the top. And unlike the original, there is no groove for the wire clip.
Puebloswatcop
Wow Bob.
Really moving along now....so close to the end. Can't wait to see and hear it running. Great job.
bkrantz
Thanks. I see a tunnel, and a light, and all that--I think.
bkrantz
As expected, the engine stand yoke interferes with the sheet metal on the right side. The yoke made it possible to install the flywheel, but now has to get out of the way.
bkrantz
First, build a raised support for my engine jack. Step 1: lay out some handy truck tires.
bkrantz
Step 2: screw together some handy lengths of 2x8, and sit the jack in place. BTW, this is a Harbor Freight motorcycle jack that almost perfectly supports the 914 engine case.
bkrantz
Engine supported, and the stand pulled back. That made it easy to unbolt the yoke.
bkrantz
Old engine stand adjustable yoke bolted on. This requires some clever spaces and washers with one side ground away to clear the lip on the engine case.
bkrantz
Back on the stand. Ready to roll back.
bkrantz
Full clearance now for sheet metal all around.
bkrantz
One more task for today, using the 3D printed miniature lettering. This is the insert I made to replace the ash tray, and mount the interior light.
bkrantz
I like it. What do you guys think?
Van B
Dude! That is sweet!
Great call on the asymmetric placement too
raynekat
OK...now you're showing off.
Nice.
bkrantz
QUOTE(raynekat @ Oct 25 2021, 08:38 PM) *

OK...now you're showing off.
Nice.


Maybe just a little.
bkrantz
I almost forgot the lower support for the oil cooler.
bkrantz
Installed.
bkrantz
Rear cylinder baffles.
bkrantz
Left side.
bkrantz
Right side.
bkrantz
Distributor hole plug from the Dub Shop.
bkrantz
A very tight press fit. I also plugged the distributor retainer stud hole.
bkrantz
Oil breather stuff.
bkrantz
Built up, with a new O-ring on the filler base.
bkrantz
In place.
bkrantz
Cylinder head breather fittings.
bkrantz
Installed with thread sealant.
bkrantz
One more thing before the sheet metal can go on: the new head temperature sensor for the Dub Shop EFI system.
bkrantz
This goes on #3. The stock sensor hole needs a M10x1.0 stud--just the place to recycle a stock valve adjuster.
bkrantz
Temp sensor installed.
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