New fuzzy channel for the window guide.

Installed.

Now the fun part: trying to get the seal seated in the door.

After lots of struggle, I could not get the front end to seat properly.

And the outer part of the seal will not seat horizontal, with a bulge next to the retainer tab.

And worst of all, I split the outer seal above the slit I made for the tab.

I know others have done this by cutting the tab off the retainer, but I figure Porsche put that there for a reason. I will have to consider options.

Definitely tricky business. Mark at 914rubber provided the best tip...wrap the triangle glass and channel with cellophane pack-wrap. It keeps everything together and stable while you muscle things in. I also needed to to trim things a bit to get everythng to seat properly. You may want to check that the glass isn't hitting the frame, keeping the seal from being far enough forward for it to fit in the channel.

Thanks, Ian. I tried a few times with different approaches, but will never get the bottom edge to sit evenly because of the tab on the retaining bracket. I have ordered the factory part, which should have a groove for the tab.

Bob....I must have tried installing this triangle window 20 times. Couldn't get the 914Rubber seal to work.
Eventually went back to the factory seal and finally had a satisfactory result.
Getting the door seals to work correctly on the A, B pillars and targa top is definitely a challenge.
Takes a lot of patience and cyphering.

Hopefully you won't have fitment issues when you go about mounting the door on the car.
I had my doors installed, such that I could check fitment against the A pillar.
There is definitely a lot of tweaking that took place in my case.

You are right, Doug. If there is any general category of jobs, anything that involves rubber seems to be most challenging. And especially where multiple parts have to align properly. Best to do those on positive karma days. And as you will see, I have decided to try the doors-on method.

Yup, doors (at least right door), going on the car. How about some new door stop retaining pins? The ones from 914Rubber measure .01 inch larger diameter than stock. To make them fit, I had to drill the stay arm, and ream out the paint from the holes in the tabs on the door jamb.

Tidy fit with no slop.

Quick adjustment of hinge positions and latch looks pretty good. Once I get the new vent window seals I can try that again.

Meanwhile, back to the engine. Here is the new (used) alternator front seal, plus some more hardware.

The hardware furthers my quest to replace all the slotted fasteners on the engine with Allen heads. Note the big Philliips screws are not original but I used them when I first put the blower housing together.

I pulled all the sheet metal off the front, just so you can see the housing with Allen fasteners.

Alternator ring in place.

With all the sheet metal back in place, it was time for a new V-belt.

Just a bit of tension, and ready.

Funny story - Many years ago I replaced every slotted fastener on the sheet metal with Allen heads because I thought they were easier to work with and looked cool. The next time I had the car in the shop the mechanic replaced every one of them with the original slotted fasteners without even asking. I guess he did not agree with that mod. I think they were not tapered and were thus harder to thread.

Beautiful work Bob.

Or maybe he was an OEM purist. But I get the advantage of the tapered end. Some of mine were a challenge to get started.

I took the left door off to get that side started.

Locks and levers in place, and working.

I need a few bits to finish the door, so instead I laid out my new throttle body cable system, from Tangerine Racing. Very nicely designed and made. This should be fun.

First, I made a trial assembly of the brackets and hardware. Right now, my plan is to mount the pulleys on the rear sides of the throttle bodies. In this view (looking from the rear), the master pulley is on the right and the secondary pulley is on the left.

Close-up of the brackets. The fit and machine work is very good.

The Tangerine kit includes longer manifold studs, to accommodate the brackets. The studs are the same length overall, but have longer sides.

The longer studs go on the insides of the manifolds.

Check fit with the left throttle body and bracket.

Now for some fun! Here is the right throttle body and the master pulley. This has to mount in place of the stock lever arm, and in the right orientation.

Lever arm and washers removed, and the throttle stop exposed. According to Chris Foley, the stock return spring should stay in place.

Here's the recommended pulley position. I plan to use the lower two holes, and the bisector of those holes should be inclined 45 degrees downward from horizontal.

Note the holes in the inner pulley recess. The upper hole will be for the locating pin that will connect the pulley and the stock throttle stop.

The small dimple is the pin location, marked with the pulley aligned at 45 degrees. But drilling a hole there would be too close to the edge of the throttle stop.

So I moved the hole position slightly to the left.

I then chamfered the hole so the split pin can slide in easier.

Here's the throttle stop back on the shaft, with the return spring.

Using the press to install the split pin in the pulley.

I pushed the split pin through the pulley just far enough to reach the back side of the throttle stop. Any further and it would interfere with stuff inboard of the stop.

New return spring on the back side of the pulley.

Pulley in place, but I need a couple of washers (M7) since the unthreaded segment of the shaft extends beyond the pulley center. Stay tuned.

Still waiting on washers, so I started on my left (slave) throttle body. I stripped off the stock lever, and got the slave pulley in position.

Throttle stop marked for pin.

Again, the pin position was too close to the edge, so I moved it just enough.

Hole drilled and chamfered.

Split pin pressed into slave pulley, again just enough to engage the thickness of the throttle stop and not drag on the washer behind it.

Getting closer to mounting everything on the engine.

One thing I did get is a replacement door stay spring. (Thanks, Mark)

Door stay ready.

Some light lube, and then installed.