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bkrantz
I then hung the door, and made a first alignment of the hinge positions. Front gap OK.
bkrantz
Rear gap better. I will work on this more later on.
bkrantz
With the door mounted, I installed the window winder. Once I get my OEM vent window gaskets I can get on with the guides and glass.
bkrantz
With both doors on, I could not resist some glamour shots.
bkrantz
One more.
raynekat
Perhaps plexiglass hoods? Then you'd know what's inside without lifting the boot. ohmy.gif
Puebloswatcop
Looking awesome Bob, driving.gif
bkrantz
QUOTE(raynekat @ Nov 15 2021, 09:25 PM) *

Perhaps plexiglass hoods? Then you'd know what's inside without lifting the boot. ohmy.gif


Nah, you can see how much junk in the trunk I have already.
bkrantz
Got my M7 washers, just the size for the throttle body shafts.
bkrantz
Slave pulley mount test. Two washes do the job.
bkrantz
Here's the slave pulley, set up with the mounting bracket and return spring.
bkrantz
All together on the left throttle body.
bkrantz
Then I got the cable stop aligned with the pulley.
bkrantz
I also swapped out the bottom plates for the air filters, since I will not need the mounting posts for the cross-bar.
bkrantz
Right side with the master pulley.
bkrantz
Again, I lined up the cable stops with the pulley.
bkrantz
Now its time for the auxiliary cable that connects the two sides.
bkrantz
Obvious route for the cable, from right to left.
bkrantz
But this leaves the middle hanging unsupported, which could make the ends twist downward and mess up the cable tension.
bkrantz
So I made a small bracket to support the middle of the cable.
bkrantz
As a straight line, the cable housing is about an inch too long.
bkrantz
Time to get out the bike tools again, this time a cable housing shear.
bkrantz
That leaves the housing end a bit jagged.
bkrantz
Filed flat, so the cable housing sits even in the stop.
bkrantz
Cable housing installed.
bkrantz
Cross cable end on the master pulley.
bkrantz
And on the slave side. I made a preliminary tension adjustment.
bkrantz
Once the engine is installed, I will connect the throttle cable to the master pulley, and it should be good to go.
bkrantz
In order to reach the right rear, the accelerator cable will need to come up through the sheet metal near the front, so I made a new 1/2 inch hole.
bkrantz
Rubber grommet.
bkrantz
Should work.
bkrantz
I got out the new coil, to explore location and mounting.
bkrantz
My first idea is to mount it on top of the engine case, with a new bracket. Mock up in cardboard.
ClayPerrine
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Nov 17 2021, 08:51 PM) *

My first idea is to mount it on top of the engine case, with a new bracket. Mock up in cardboard.


I like the mounts that replace and plug the distributor hole with the coil mount.

Just my $.02.

Clay
bkrantz
Clay, do you have a photo of one?
bkrantz
I laid out the pattern on some 10 gauge aluminum.
bkrantz
Cut and bent.
bkrantz
Ready to mount the new coil.
bkrantz
This should work, but I need some longer case bolts.
bkrantz
The engine is just about dressed.
Morph914
Great work! This is going to be one very clean engine bay.
Keep it coming!
bkrantz
QUOTE(Morph914 @ Nov 20 2021, 05:44 PM) *

Great work! This is going to be one very clean engine bay.
Keep it coming!


Thanks. Not my first vision, but once I let go of the "all original" rule, I may have lost control.
bkrantz
Another neglected detail: the wire for the oil temp sender. The original is pretty ratty.
bkrantz
My new wire (green, with a hand-drawn black stripe!).
bkrantz
Through the grommet in the taco plate cover.
bkrantz
New crush washers and a dab of gasket sealant.
bkrantz
Cover plate installed, and wire crimped in the holder.
bkrantz
Next job: new plug wires. This is the MSD kit that is part of the Dub Shop system.
bkrantz
Plug wires laid out, from spark plugs to the new coil.
bkrantz
Now to cut each wire to length.
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