You are almost to "drum roll" time. Can't wait.

Thanks, guys. It feels close--but close could be a couple of months.

I am still sorting out all the new electrical connections. With the new EFI system, the power for the fuel pump comes from the new relay box, that will be in the trunk along with the ECU. I need to get power to the relocated pump, which uses the stock pump wiring (extended to reach the front).

Lots of detective work tells me that pin 12 on the rear plug, on the stock relay board, connects to the pump. I confirmed this by running a lead to pin 12--and the pump runs!

More about my wiring plan. I want to modify the 12-pin cable to bridge the new EFI system with the stock car system.

The cable housing is pretty rigid and brittle.

I still need the stock 12-pin cable wires for the starter, the back-up switch on the transaxle, and the oil pressure switch. The original leads to the coil will be repurposed to send ignition-on to the new relay box, and to carry the signal to tach.

I removed the original lead on pin 12, which supplied power to the supplementary air valve.

And I replaced it with a new thicker gauge red wire to feed power for the fuel pump.

I checked all the wires and then replaced the brittle covering sections.

Back-up light switch leads with terminals replaced (soldered).

The rebuilt engine cable with all terminals replaced, and two double-connectors for the fuel pump and the ignition on/tach feed leads. All terminals and connectors soldered on.

That should be all the cables and leads, old and new. Now to organize this mess before it goes in the car.

Stuff that might help: spark plug wire brackets and cable clamps/hangers.

Some more engine details. First, I need to make a way for the intake temp sensor cable to reach inside the air filter.

Per Dup Shop design, I notched the base plate.

The filter element covers most of the notch. Maybe a dap of silicone for where the wire passes through.

Then, I started plumbing the engine vacuum system--still under design. Here is the stock anti-flashback valve.

Valve installed in the stock location.

Some stock-type 12mm vacuum hose, from Belmetric.

Left cylinder head to valve.

Right cylinder head to valve.

Now for the small vacuum line, to connect the throttle bodies to the EFI control box and the fuel pressure regulator.

I bolted one spark plug wire holder to each side of the rear sheet metal panel.

Now starting to think about where to put the control box and the relay box. The trunk is the obvious place, away from wet conditions.

Or maybe like this? Suggestions welcome!

More details on the engine while it is still on the stand.

I need vent lines attached to the air filter housing, and got a pair of brass fittings, with 1/2 inch NPT threads. I also got a set of NPT taps. (Always buy more tools!)

Speaking of tools, in the back of my ratchet-socket drawer, I found this cross-bar socket driver, that filled in for a large diameter tap handle.

Holes drilled and tapped.

Fittings installed with sealant.

No interference with the filter element.

Mounted on the left throttle body.

Vacuum/vent line from the cylinder heads via the anti-flashback valve.

I found that the notches in the plug wire brackets were too small, and pinching the wires. So I pulled off the plastic dip coating, and then filed the holes larger. I was able to slid the coating back on.

I stacked the plug wire brackets with a pair of hose clamps for the fuel lines on both sides .

For now, the fuel lines and plug wires are done.

Here's my SS muffler from Ben Macfarland. I need to install a SS bung for the O2 sensor. The muffler might not be ideal, since it is a bit downstream from the combustion chambers, but it is the first location where the exhaust from all 4 cylinders will mix.

I chose a location as far towards the center as possible, but not in the way of the muffler bracket.

Then I got out a 1 inch hole saw, and mounted the muffler on the press.

Ready for welding.

I then started the transfer of the engine from the stand onto jack stands. This turned out to be a logic puzzle as well as mechanical process.

First, I got out the engine support bar, from the almost depleted stock of powder-coated parts.

Bolted onto engine rubber mounts.

Here's part one of my two step process. Given the jacks and other stuff I have, I had to first take the weight off the stand, and then lower the engine as much as possible, i.e. about half-way. I made some scaffolding, and put my Fuchs wheels to work (purists look away).

After removing the stand, I lowered the engine so the support bar and the stand pivot rested on jack stands. I then pulled out my "scaffolding" and repositioned the jack now on the floor.

With the weight on the jack again, I added an angle iron piece to support the back of the engine.

I will leave the jack in place as backup, until the trans is attached and supported.

Last task today: unbolt the engine stand mount from the case. Ready for a clutch!

If you have an engine hoist is there a safe place to bolt a chain?

Looking at the possibility of having to remove any connections i think the first picture makes more sense in mounting the control box...... But after looking at the pictures again I see that the ports are blocked either way....Maybe mount both on the upper part of the wall so they arent blocked by the jack or the inner fender.....

I have one (in pieces, stashed under my big work bench). But I thought by the time I could rig up a safe attachment method and assemble the hoist, I could get the job done with my motorcycle lift.

I am still pondering the best location. I should need to connect to the serial port during set up and tuning, so the jack would not be in the way most of the time.

Everything (almost) I need to get the trans ready and mounted to the engine.