Clutch fork (yes, glamorous plating that nobody will see), throw-out bearing, and new bushings.

A light smear of grease on the guide tube, fork pivot, and splines.

Fork and bearings with new bushings, and a bit more grease.

Installed, with a new pivot retainer.

Clutch cable pulley and housing.

Installed (and yes, needs a lube fill, since CMS emptied the initial fill after they ran the rebuilt trans on the bench).

Speaking of CMS, I just noticed their logo on their custom-machined intermediate plate.

Ready to install.

New clutch disk and cover.

Disk in place, with the alignment too (dummy shaft). Ready to install the cover, right? But something is missing--can you guess?

My new flywheel has no locating pins for the clutch cover. No problem, I will get the pins from the old flywheel. But that one also has no pins. Time to make another rush order.

So, in the time remaining, I got out the brackets for the engine support bar.

Pretty quick to get those installed. Snug for now, and will adjust and tighten after the engine is in place.

So, with more time I got out all the half-shaft parts, including new CVs from PMB. I got the version machined for the original fiber gasket. BTW, PMB was the only source I could find for new CVs with the proper 914-4 half-shaft splines.

Now I need to sort out the arrangement of circlips, washers, and spacers.

Looking good! thats a lot happening this week, coming together and you will be firing it up in no time. are you venting the crank case from the PVC to the fitting on the intake next to the head vent hose? Too bad you cant put the controller in a sealed box in the stock location rather than the trunk, i think thats what i would do.

Phil

I am still thinking about PCV venting, as well as ECU location. A weatherproof box in the engine compartment could be a solution.

More partial tasks today, starting with CV joints and half-shafts.

Step 1 joins the new locating pins in the new type 1 CVs from PMB, modified for the pins and the paper gasket on the flange side..

Easy job on the press.

All four with new pins.

I then explored the options for spacers, washers, and retaining clips. This would be the stock set-up.

New conical washer on the shaft, and some grease on the splines.

I pressed the CV onto the shaft, and then used split ring pilers on the stock type circlip.

But the CV center partially blocks the groove for the clip. I tried using my press to squeeze the conical washer down but that did not work.

The CV kits also include a thinner snap ring.

That fits nicely, but could be weaker.

I pressed the CV off the shaft.

I pressed the CV off the shaft.

I pressed the CV off the shaft.

And then I dug out the conical washers from the original CVs. These were already a bit flatter than the new ones, and I encouraged them to be even flatter.

Comparison of the flattened washer (top) and the high-relief new washer (bottom). My measurements are close to fitting with the thicker circlip.

I then took a look at the new boot and flange. These are also essentially type 1, with 6 bolt holes.

But what I don't like is the sloppy fit. The OD of the outer part of the CV is 90 mm, but the ID of the flange is about 94 mm.

I thought about a stock paper gasket on the inside of the flange, but this would prevent metal-to metal contact of the boot flange and leave some compressibility in the stack.

I ordered some 90/94 mm O-rings to try another way.

Then I got out the trans mounts. More re-plated stuff and new rubber mounts.

I also took the chance to set up the muffler and bracket on the rear of the trans. (And the trans mount bolts are upside down for now.)

This was also a chance to double-check the O2 sensor bung location. It still looks good, since I am not using the stock muffler hanger. But for good sensor clearance the bung needs to be horizontal.

Looks good, so off to the welder.

Final bit for today: bolt on the trans mounts, with the bolts correct (inserted from below).

I got distracted by a few other things today, including shoveling snow.

But I think I have decided where and how to mount the ECU and relay box.

The ECU will mount to a plate attached to the trunk wall, and the relay box will piggy-back on top of the ECU. There is enough room to attach serial cables to the right side of the ECU, and the big cable clears the jack.

I also mocked up the position of the O2 signal processor, and the tach signal adapter.

I plan a 1 inch hole for cables to pass into the engine compartment just to the right of the tach adapter.

With my remaining time today, I worked out the connections between all the components. I think I finally have it all sorted.

I really like your mounting solution it looks very clean and organized...

Thanks--I still like it today, but I will wait to make it permanent until after I get all the wiring done.

More details while I am waiting for parts to finish the engine-trans mating.

I got out the pieces for the shift rod, including new bushings and conical screws.

New bushings pressed into the coupling.

Coupling on the rear rod (and yes, the screw side will face down).

With the rubber boot, ready to install.

A couple of problems I did not notice with the front rod: I installed it "sideways", and did not notice that the powder coating got onto the machined end that inserts snugly into the coupling.

A bit of scraping and sanding, and the rod fits into the coupling.