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bkrantz
Back in the car, and roughly aligned.
bkrantz
I forgot to mention that to remove the front rod, I have to open access to the shift lever base and loosen the bolt. I guess I should leave it open until the engine and trans are in place.
bkrantz
Final shift linkage bit, at the trans input. New bushings for the shaft hole and the ball joint.
bkrantz
Finally, the input coupler--more re-plated bling that nobody will see.
nivekdodge
Exquisite
bkrantz
I am trying to do all the things that are easier while the engine in still out. I got out all the trunk hinge parts and torsion bars.
bkrantz
First, I used a die to chase all the studs.
bkrantz
Then I fought the torsion bars into place, and clamped down. These things as a b*tch even at the beginning.
bkrantz
At least I did remember to pass the bars through the hoop bracket. BTW, these are also powder-coated.
bkrantz
Then the hinges, with the lever piece. I used lock nuts on the lever studs.
bkrantz
Hinges installed, with new hinge pins and rollers.
bkrantz
As recommended, I added some weight to the frunk to balance the weight of the engine and trans.
bkrantz
I also picked up my muffler at the weld shop.
bkrantz
It now has a stainless bung for the O2 sensor.
bkrantz
More part deliveries. Here are M8 studs for the back of the transaxle.
bkrantz
Got out my stud install kit again, and installed each stud with a dab of Loctite.
bkrantz
I then installed the custom bracket that came with my Mcfarland muffler.
bkrantz
I then got sidetracked. My hydraulic press piston stopped returning when I released the pressure valve. The most likely culprit was a broken return spring, so I ordered a replacement from Dake.
bkrantz
Sure enough, the bottom of the spring was broken off. But the upper retaining bolt was also broken in half.
bkrantz
I then spent 30 minutes removing the rest of the broken bolt, mostly by tapping the side with a punch to make it spin lefty-loosey.
bkrantz
OK, all set to rebuild the piston with the new spring, but...the replacement is 2 inches shorter than the original. And I was planning to use the press for the next task today. Gotta improvise to stay on schedule.
bkrantz
I also got bi O-rings to seal the CV joint boot flanges. These are 90 mm ID and 2 mm thick, from McMaster-Carr.
bkrantz
They fit just right!
bkrantz
Maybe its me (definitely) but the extra holes in the Type 1 CV boot flanges bother me. In the 914 application, these holes correspond to locating pins, not bolts.
bkrantz
So I got out some brass shim material.
bkrantz
And made interior covers for the extra holes.
bkrantz
And then glued them in place with aviation sealant.
bkrantz
OK, on with assembly. First, to lube all the CV joints with the grease that came in the GKN kits. A slightly messy job.
bkrantz
So, with a new O-ring in the boot flange, and a flattened conical washer I tapped the CV joint onto the axle.
bkrantz
I ended up using the split ring retainer, which fit exactly.
bkrantz
To minimize mess, after installing one CV on each half-shaft, I attached the stub axle with a new paper gasket.
bkrantz
Without my press, I used a vise to squeeze the CV with new locating pins into the flange, enough to get the bolts started.
bkrantz
I then used new factory bolts, with new Schorr washers, and re-plated hardware, and got the stub axles attached.

I then installed the CV on the other end.
bkrantz
Eventually, I had two complete axles, ready to install.
bkrantz
And so, into the rear hubs.
bkrantz
Easy to insert the splined stub axle.
bkrantz
I braced the hub, and then got out the big torque wrench. 30-35 mkp (220-250 ft-lbs) is a big twist.
bkrantz
And then finished with cotter pins.
bkrantz
Ready for engine and trans.
euro911
Paint the rotor hats black to help dissipate the heat. Also keeps rust at bay idea.gif
bkrantz
Thanks for the tip, Mark. I will put that on the list.
bkrantz
I got some 22 G 3-conductor cable. This will connect the O2 sensor control with the AFR gauge.
bkrantz
To get from the frunk to the interior I need to snake the cable through the snorkel. First, a bit of stiff wire.
bkrantz
Then the cable.
bkrantz
And into the interior.
bkrantz
Now to connect the cable to the leads for the gauge. I soldered the connections.
bkrantz
And then heat-shrink tubing around each connection, and around all three.
bkrantz
I think the gauge will live in the center arm rest, next to my hidden audio system controller.
bkrantz
At the other end, I put the snorkel back in place. I will find the best route for the cable when I do all the engine wiring.
bkrantz
Speaking of wire placement, I drilled a 1 inch hole in the trunk wall.
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