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bkrantz
I primed and painted the raw edge.
bkrantz
And popped in a 1 inch grommet. I will find out later if this is big enough.
bkrantz
After reading Len Hoffman's analysis of engine case breathing, I decided to change from the "stock" set-up, with each head vented, to Len's recommended venting from the oil breather stack. These are the head vent plugs (and one of the vent hose fittings, already removed).
bkrantz
Even with the sheet metal and intake manifolds, I was able to install the vent plugs.
bkrantz
I took the near-final opportunity to tame the new EFI cables. In a new places, I can use bolt-on clamps.
bkrantz
And here.
bkrantz
I also got stick-on anchors. Not sure how these will hold up to heat.
bkrantz
These make it easy--if they stay on.
bkrantz
I also grouped some of the cables into plastic sheaths. Not such a mess now.
bkrantz
OK, time for engine and transaxle assembly. Here are the flywheel location pins I was missing.
bkrantz
I used a plastic-face hammer to tap (pound) these in.
bkrantz
Finally, the flywheel is ready. Clutch disk in place with centering tool.
bkrantz
And clutch cover bolted on.
bkrantz
I got the trans balanced on a floor jack.
bkrantz
Here we go. I have not done this in at least 10 years.
bkrantz
So, this photo is about 2 hours later. It took about 5 attempts. After 3 tries to align the disk, and insert the trans shaft (with lots of changing angles of trans and engine), I resorted to another method. I loosened the clutch cover bolts enough so the disk could shift sideways. On the fourth attempt, I got the shaft in, then pulled the trans back and tightened the cover bolts. The fifth attempt then got it all together.

A few more things to do, and then I can get this beast into the car.
nivekdodge
I'm way back at Panel replacement but i have two questions. As I look at the underside of the tunnel, is there anything I need to do before putting new floors on or is it all reachable later?
2. are you following a guide for whats going on next?

Superbe Job
bkrantz
QUOTE(nivekdodge @ Dec 21 2021, 05:29 PM) *

I'm way back at Panel replacement but i have two questions. As I look at the underside of the tunnel, is there anything I need to do before putting new floors on or is it all reachable later?
2. are you following a guide for whats going on next?

Superbe Job


1. Access to the tunnel is very limited once new floor panels are on. Make sure all the cable tube brackets and braces are solid, especially for the clutch cable.

2. I am guided by various manuals, logic, and lots of others here on 914World.
bkrantz
More engine-trans prep. How about a Hi-Torque starter? Less weight, more power.
bkrantz
Bolted on. (And then I torqued all the engine-trans bolts and nuts.)
bkrantz
I shortened the lead I made for the solenoid. Another soldered terminal.
bkrantz
Then the connectors for the reverse light switch. These are not quite in all the way yet. Plus a new rubber boot.
bkrantz
For the power lead to the starter, I got a massive pre-made cable.
bkrantz
This should carry as many amps as needed.
bkrantz
Starter power lead, through the rear sheet metal.
bkrantz
Starter, all connections.
bkrantz
I had quite a gap between the rear sheet metal panel, and the top of the engine case. How about sealing that with some rubber tape?
bkrantz
No more gap.
bkrantz
Time to fill the transaxle. I used Swepco 201 90W, as recommended by CMS.
bkrantz
And my trusty 17 mm hex wrench. This has been hiding in the back of my tool chest for a while.
bkrantz
Sure easier with the trans out of the car.
bkrantz
The fill took about 3/4 gallon. CMS did run the transaxle on the bench, and drained the original lube.
bkrantz
More prep for the installation: I removed the throttle bodies.
bkrantz
I also removed the oil filler/breather. No troubles with clearance now, right?
bkrantz
Here's the engine and trans braced and balanced on my "motorcycle lift".
bkrantz
Look out, car--here it comes!
bkrantz
Decent clearance under the rear bumper, with the valance removed.
bkrantz
Got it centered and lined up. I lifted one inch at a time, and then checked all around, top and bottom.
bkrantz
I used some cardboard to protect the edges of the sheet metal from the suspension nuts.
bkrantz
Eventually, I got the engine and trans lifted into place, and the mounts aligned. In the front, I used new bolts, inserted from below. This protects the nut end (and matches the PET).
bkrantz
In the rear, I also reached for new bolts, but could not find my bag of M8 lock nuts, so these are temporary.
bkrantz
That's it--bolted on, and jack removed.
bkrantz
Engine in!!! It took more than 2 years to get here, but it feels good! smilie_pokal.gif cheer.gif piratenanner.gif
bkrantz
Now, just a few wires and other things to connect.
seanpaulmc
This is OUTSTANDING, Bob! beerchug.gif

Cracker
Just went through 20% of your rebuild - very well done! That is one outstanding Teener - thanks to you...

Cracker

PS: Love the color.
Cairo94507
Congratulations! Very nice to see that engine in the car. Can't wait for you to turn the key. beerchug.gif
Puebloswatcop
Bob, that looks awesome. what a great milestone. I am starting to hear the drum roll and the fat lady is warming up to sing.....can't wait.
euro911
aktion035.gif
Dion
Bob, you rock mate. Fantastic. Glad the power plant is in. Looks so good.
beerchug.gif
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