Here's the filter and some oil from the initial startup. I might cut open the filter and check for crud.

Time for some more holes! This hole in the right engine shelf is for the O2 sensor cable. I am trying to follow the logic of where cables and hoses go, along with disconnects, so that the engine can drop in the future with minimal fuss.

And this hole is for the intake vacuum line.

And of course I need to paint the new raw edges.

Holes painted and time for grommets.

Hole ready for the vacuum tube.

Vacuum line connected.

O2 sensor cable fed from below.

Have I mentioned that my speed cable is about 1.5 inches too short? I need to create more slack from the cable run under the dashboard.

Just about ready to start trimming cable lengths and making permanent connections.

Before I forget, I refilled the crankcase. More break-in oil, SAE 30.

Plus more zinc additive.

More progress on the last checklist.

Next task: the speedometer cable. When I installed the cable in the interior, I did not leave enough projecting from the fire wall to reach the angle drive on the transaxle. Looking under the dash, I ran the cable straight forward from the gauge.

Once I removed the pedal board and pulled the carpet partly off the front firewall, I changed the route of the cable and fed excess into the tunnel.

Now, another problem. The cable retaining nut does not want to screw straight onto the angle drive.

I spent almost an hour on this. First I chased the threads, but no luck. Then I used my Dremel to chamfer the first threads in the cap and on the angle drive. I got it started straight, and it held for about two turns--yay! But as I screwed it tight, it cocked twisted again. Fudge!

I will probably hold just fine, but this will bother me and my OCD.

With the speedo cable attached, I bundled it with the O2 cable and the clutch cable, and used some plastic cable cover. I want to get some high-temp wrap over this.

Inside buttoned-up.

Another item off the last(?) list.

Beautiful work and meticulous installation

What brand of speedometer cable?

I had the same problem with mine, tried several times with no luck and the same issues as yours. Finally one day I crawled back under held my tongue a certain way, the planets aligned, the Speedo Gods had mercy and the damn thing went on correctly. I was so happy for this small issue to be behind me.
So don’t give up on it just yet.

Cheers,
John

wow! been watching your build and give us encouragement and learned a lot from your detailed informations.
I just want to ask if the bolt/nut for tranny mount is better that the nut is on top or the usual from various 914 that the nut is at the bottom?

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I am with you on this. I would be awake nights wracking my brain about why it is not going on straight.....

I followed the geometry shown in the factory parts catalog. And with the nut on top, I can remove the bolt without removing the mount--not sure if this will be helpful in the future or not.

Gee, thanks. Now I will never sleep.

With a few more parts, I am ready to start the "final" wiring for the EFI system. Here the dual bus and cover I got from McMaster-Carr, and some small gauge ring terminals.

I decided on this layout, L to R: the tach signal adapter, the O2 sensor controller, and the double bus.

Now its just one wire at a time, after confirming which wire goes where. I am soldering the terminals on to avoid future problems.

And first connection on the ground bus.

I added some electrical tape along the exposed edge of the relay box, since the wires will hang over the edge.

That's enough for today, with the connections done for the O2 system and the coil.

Just a few more wires run today. The device on the left is the rpm signal converter, with the cover removed.

Tach signal converter all wired up.

So that's all the various boxes and components connected. Now for the cables from the engine sensors.

Whew. After a solid 5 hours, everything is connected. For each cable, I trimmed back the mesh cable cover, then covered the raw mesh end with heat-shrink, and trimmed and tinned each wire end before making the screw connection on the relay board.

Once I confirm that the engine runs again, I will tidy this up a bit.

And here's the waste from shortening the cables.

Another task crossed off.

One last wire had to be resolved, and the Dub Shop schematics did the trick. I am 99% confident I have every connection as Mario designed. (But when my son helped with temporary connections for the first engine start a couple of weeks ago, we had 2 wires from the Hall sensor reversed. Hmm)

With everything connections, I turned the key to Run--no flames or explosions. But since I changed the oil and filter, I want to get oil circulating again.

After about 10 spurts of running the starter motor (with the coil disconnected) the oil light went off. That makes me feel better that the engine is ready for start-up again.

Because of the mix-up with the Hall sensor wires, I want to go through the calibration again. Last time I had a hard time seeing the timing mark on the blower cage, so I added a paint dab to the notch. (Note to self: next time do this during engine assembly.)

I also added a mark on the flywheel, 180° opposite of the standard mark, with a shallow drill mark and then paint.

One more thing before starting the engine again: install the air filters (and stop worrying about something falling in the throttle body stacks).

Mounting studs.

Air filter.

And top cover. I still need to decorate that blank rectangle.

I think you should put BA-914 on them....BA? Bad Ass

Looking great! Would you mind showing a better shot of how you set up your throttle cable system? Thx
Jesse

Hi, Jesse. Here is a top view.