New hole in the front sheet metal for the accelerator cable.

Master pulley on the left.

Another view of the left side.

Slave pulley on the right.

Well, today was a kinda 3 steps backwards day. I checked everything and got my laptop connected.

The first problem was a funny reading from the throttle position sensor, initially showing 100% open when it was closed. I fooled around with the cable and plug, and found one wire pulling out of the plug connector. I fixed that, and it looked to read correctly.

I then tried to check the engine timing, but could not get the timing light to flash. I tried a number of setups with the light pickup without luck. Eventually I pulled plug #1 and found no spark. Argh.

About the same time, I saw some strange throttle position readings again. Now it looks like the position sensor is misbehaving. Argh again.

Perfect on the pics. Much appreciated, thx
Jesse

Solving the problems is half the fun. Enjoy the detective work. It'll be that much more satisfying when it's all sorted.

Still sorting out the EFI problems, and then I decided to work on something more tangible. I ordered a factory battery clamp since the only one I had is designed for an Optima batter.

But the vertical side of the clamp is very tall--too tall to get a good grip on the battery flange.

So I trimmed about 3mm from the lower edge, and then added this to the outside. (and repainted the clamp)

That extra thickness pushes the clamp closer to the battery, and makes for a better grip.

Now I am waiting for a replacement EFI part before I can continuing trouble-shooting.

Meanwhile, I did my first 914 valve adjustment (with the engine in the car) in almost 30 years. Fond(?) memories.

One more item done.

Good Morning Bob, looks like your list is getting awefully short, If you need to lengthen it up again, I can always send you one of my 914s to fill your time and build your list back up....Everything is really looking awesome.

Can I get in line to have you complete a few projects??

Great project and how are you planning to bleed your brakes? assistant, vacuum or pressure?

Thanks. The list might look short but I expect many weeks (or months) before I get close to done.

I want to first try the gravity method recommended by PMB, and go from there.

I have most of the parts to hook up the heating system. The duct sections I took off the car are all powder-coated. And I have one NOS heat control valve, with another on the way.

I also have some new bits from 914Rubber, including the baffle valves. These need a bit of trimming at corners, and the pivot pins need to be shortened.

First section of duct (passenger side).

And the section section, up through the sheet metal, with a new ring gasket. Pretty easy so far.

The the fun started, with the short section that connect the heat exchanger outlet with the control box. These did not want to mate at all, and look like different sizes.

The duct section is round.

But the outlet on the SS heat exchangers is not!

Since the ducts are loose, I tried reforming the shape to match the outlet. The was closer, but still too big.

Next, I had a pair of cuts to help shrink the end of the duct. Still not enough.

Two more pairs of cuts finally did the trick, and I was able to insert the duct into the outlet.

The upper hole on the outlet also needed some adjustment.

Finally! Duct in place, with bolts top and bottom.

Last bit today. I got the right side control box installed, and the control cable connected. And I confirmed that the lever inside the car opens and closes the box flapper valve.

Now the left side. First I modified the horizontal duct so it will insert into the exchanger outlet.

Flap valve modified by rounding the lower corners.

Ducts from the blower housing to the exchanger, and the vertical tube up through the sheet metal.

Upper hole elongated, just like the right side.

Horizontal duct forced into place. Now I just need the left side control box.

Yesterday, the postman delivered another NOS heat control box.

In case I was not sure which side?

So that's where I put it. Upside down?

I need a few more little parts to finish the heat system, so I played with some more stuff that got delivered recently.

Since I need to replace the PCV valve with an open fitting, I tried to find something that fits the holes (outer and inner) in the stock oil breather. It took about 4 tries, but I finally got a fitting (1.2 inch barb and 14x1.5 threads) in aluminum from Racetronix, and a 14x1.5 brass nut from Belmetric.

It fits just right, with a dab of aviation sealant.

Breather re-installed and the vent hoses all connected for real. We will see if this vent scheme works once the car is on the road.

With a bit more time to play, I got down the rear valance. It still looks a bit lumpy but I figure it will not be too visible, and I would rather have the durability of powder coating--which means no filler (and means my limited metal forming skills can't be hidden).

If you recall from 2 years ago, I had to weld in a patch to repair a very home-made PO hole on the right side for his custom dual exhaust. This view is the inside--the outside is not perfect but better.

To install the valence I removed the bumper. No big deal, except...

On both license plate lights, the ground wire terminals were broken. Time to re-do these before the bumper can go back on.

I did get the valence mounted, with a little bit of persuasion since the curve of the restored rear panel does not quite match the valence.

Clearance to the tail pipe is a bit less than 1/4 inch. I want to see if I can enlarge this.

I replaced the ground wire terminals, and stripped back some of the heat-shrink tubing I installed last year so the wires can bend more easily. And then a quick check of the lights--they work!

With the bumper back on the rear end is complete.

I finally got my replacement for the throttle position sensor, from Summit Racing. This is a Ford sensor with a Delphi (GM) plug connector--apparently a relatively common custom EFI part. But the lead positions are not the same as what I had, so I switched them.