New sensor (on the right) ready to install and test--but dinner time.

Well, dinner turned into an extended absence. But I am back!

Lots of stuff delivered while I was gone, including a 3 ft length of 5 mm hex. Why?

This is a tool to finally repair my hydraulic press. The hex has to reach inside a 12 inch long spring in order to screw down the end retaining Allen bolt. Even the extra-long Allen wrench I have will not reach.

With the spring bolted to the bottom of the piston, and the piston inside the cylinder, the next trick is to pull the spring far enough to screw in the upper anchor. Definitely a three-handed job.

Somehow I got the second Allen bolt in with only two hands.

Piston and cylinder ready.

Nice to have the press working again--especially the auto return.

Back to working on the 914. A warm-up with dual outlet for the heater blower.

Then I moved the wire leads from the Hall sensor back to where they were in December, to match the one-page diagram of the lead connections (and confirmed by Mario).

Then it was time to install the replacement throttle position sensor.

It works! A quick calibration, and now I have consistent 0 to 100% opening.

I then tested the ignition spark with a spare plug, and now have a healthy spark with the engine cranking.

While on a roll I hooked up my timing light and tried to check the static timing, again with the engine cranking, but could not get a consistent light flash.

Just a few minutes to play 914 today. I did stop by a tire shop to have one tire removed, from the wheel that will be my spare. This rim has the worst curb rash.

The inside has many years of road crud.

After a quick clean, first with detergent and then Simple Green. Still some work to do.

Some special stuff.

Calendar installed easily--works great.

Andmore new stuff, mostly small parts.

Back under the car, with a new barrel clamp.

That goes on the left heat control box.

Then a length of high temp hose, cut down to fit.

That connects the control box and feed to the long duct on the left.

And another on the right. That completes all the heat system ducting, at least under the car.

Cross another task off the list!

Another detail: sealing boot for the clutch cable.

Boot installed.

While under the car, I was reminded that the speedo cable did not have a boot, so I got out some 3M rubber sealing tape.

Instant boot.

Another new boot: for the shift rod. The old one was essentially rigid.

To get that installed, I had to detach the rear shift rod at both ends. Hope this is worth it!

Time to start another task: filling and bleeding the brake system. I bought almost all components, including new stainless steel lines and rebuilt calipers from PMB. The system has been on the car complete for a year, but not filled.

I started with a simple plan, and tried gravity bleeding.

Here's the gravity bleed hose set up on the right rear caliper, with the free end of the hose higher than the reservoir.

I filled the reservoir, opened the caliper bleeder, and...nothing.

I gently pumped the brake pedal a few times and the level dropped a little bit, but then stayed the same.

So, I next got out the power bleeder, that has been part of my garage kit for about 30 years, with the Porsche reservoir adapter.

But the hose is showing its age. For today, I cut off the end with the split and re-attached the cap.

Then I could pump (just air) and pressurize the reservoir to about 25 psi.

Next problem: a puddle on the floor under the master cylinder.

At first I expected to see the supply lines from the reservoir leaking, but they were dry. The (main) leak was from the fitting where the front right line attaches to the banjo fitting. This was actually just finger tight--my bad.

So I tightened that loose fitting, pumped up some pressure, and found more leaks.

Now I was worried. I started tracing all the lines and connections, starting at the MC. None were "loose", but I was able to tighten all of them a bit more. When I installed all the lines I tightened them the way I would for "normal" steel brake lines. I think the SS lines need more pressure to seat fully.

That included the junction fitting inside the tunnel.

I was able to stop all obvious leaks except for where the line feeds into the right rear caliper. Even after what felt like too much torque it still weeped. So I removed the line.

A possible problem: the flare on the caliper end is a bit off-center and uneven (it looks worse than the photo shows). Time to step back.

Well, sitting overnight revealed a similar leak from the left rear caliper.

Just like the right side, the line going in to the caliper is leaking, despite a fair amount of tightening on the fitting.

I pulled the hard line off.

And just like on the right side, the flare seems off-center. (Sorry for the fuzzy photo)

Meanwhile, I was experimenting with cleaning the original Fuchs wheels. I got most of the ancient wheel weight adhesive off from the inside. And then I got out my new citrus cleaner from Chemical Guys.

About 30 minutes with the cleaner and a scotch-bite pad, and the inside is looking good--good enough at least for this wheel, which will be my spare.

The outside also cleaned up a bit, but still has the nasty bit of curb rash.

Back on the brake lines. According to some reliable sources, stainless steel lines are a bit harder, and might take more effort to get the flares to seat properly. They recommend a process of tightening and loosening a fitting, and repeating 5 or 6 times, before a final tightening.

So, starting at the master cylinder, I applied this technique at every junction.

Junction with the tunnel line.