The guys at VintageCarLEDs.com are looking into what may be causing my problem. I am sure it is not their light, but something to do with the wiring. Probably my wiring. I know very little about LEDs, but I have an idea what to look for on this. Please chime in on your thoughts.

So here is the deal: Installed the very awesome LED headlights from VintagecarLEDs.com. They have been on the ball with customer service, helping me with the install on my 75.

Backdated bumpers with OEM fog lights. I wired them up and either did not document, or can't find any notes on the project. My Prosperos garage wire diagram for the 75 does not show fogs.

Everything worked fine with the non-LED headlights. Fogs are only on when the low beams are on, just like factory. So my only change is the LED install.

Taking a test run last night Low beams are awesome, High beams are awesome. Both need adjusting, of course.....>>> and decided to pull the switch for the FOG lights. At that point the headlights went to HIGH and would not switch back. I get the click with the blinker stalk pull, but no change on the headlights. Not sure if the fogs were on, probably not.

But that is my issue. I am thinking it is ground related. Don't LEDs want their own ground? Maybe I am sharing a ground with the fogs???

Please chime in.

Hopefully @Spoke will jump in here but I’d offer that you may need his EP26 relay. https://www.spokeworksled.com/914-led-solutions

Interesting - I had almost this exact same issue last week after installing the exact same headlights. I spent a lot of time troubleshooting it and farting around with stuff (AND NEVER BLEW ONE FUSE IF YOU CAN BELIEVE IT)

my fix - what i found
1) I had a bad ground on my High Beam Indicator lIght (which works now after fixing) Your wiring diagram should show you which wires lead to that indicator)
2) I am pretty certain my fog light relay was bad and the Previous owner had wired it directly to the fuse box (fog lights work when engaging the switch even with lights off)
3) i bypassed the fog light relay (dont like the fogs going of with high beams anyway)

so, net/net - the high beam indicator ground and bypassed the relay

Not sure if that's the right way to do it...but everything works flawlessly now...and i can use my fogs as "day time running lights" if i want...and they stay on even with high beams..

Hope that helps

Also - check this thread - especially starting at post 47.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...737&hl=LEDs

I found this LINK

with this picture from an thread I started back when I was backdating and originally installing the fogs.

I like the idea of the fogs staying on, so as I find the problem with this, I will "re-wire" as pictured.

Click to view attachment

Holy Moly.... That is alot of reading and work.... I searched using "foglight" etc.... I guess should have done "fog*". WHen I do, I get your link as the 3rd one down. Not sure I would have read the whole thing to get to #47.

Maybe this foglight operation fix will "fix" my issue. I will try that first then hunt for bad grounds.

Thanks for the link.

I have semi solved my problem by doing only one of the wire mods above. Getting to the fog light switch is not as easy as just pulling a wire from the fuse panel. So I will mess with the other 2 wire mods dealing with the switch at another time.

The new LED headlights work.... HI and LO beam and the fogs stay on with the headlights on both HI and LO. I can control the HI and LO with the blinker stalk as designed.

All is well. As I make other wire mods, I will report back.

The problem is that the stock wiring for the fog light relay uses the high beams to provide a path to ground. It's such a small amount of current that it won't light a bulb filament, but it CAN trigger the high beams on an LED headlight.

The reason they wired it this way from stock is because it causes the fog lights to automatically turn off when the high beams turn on because there's no longer a path to ground (the high beams control the fog light relay) but with LED headlights it's the other way around, the fog light relay switches the headlights! That's why you need to switch where the fog light relay grounds to if you switch to LED headlights.

To close this thread out.... I finally got around to wiring up everything like the picture in post 5. I will say that I am now 100% solved. That diagram did it.

The fogs are now completely independent of the headlights. The key must be on. Works like a champ. The new LEDs from Okteenerfest are super. I think their discount code will work until 12/31. Highly recommend. BTW they installed best on my car once I got the early type headlight carriage. The 75-76 one could work too, but it might will need to be modified. The little "U" shape tab that works with the long bolt will need to be ground down a bit. At least mine would have needed that.

I had 1 old style and one new style, so I just found another old style and used it. Bulb inserts fit no problem now.

Just upgraded my HL's to LED and did not test the fog lamp operation yet. Glad to find this information, looks like a bit of rewiring is in order. Nice thing is the fog/driving lamps can now work all the time. That bothered me forever.

Thanks for posting.

No rewiring just pull the ground wire off the relay behind the panel and put it to ground.

It's the silly floating grounds that cause this issue.

See Here for diagrams and pics

I did your fix 1st then did the blk/blu between the switches and the added wire from the switch to the keyed fuses....

It gave the Fog switch power with the key on vs. with the HL switch on. That way you can run the fogs and nothing else. ANd they turn OFF with the key. Only doing what you suggest requires the HL switch to be pulled to at least the 1st notch. So the full re-wire in post 5 allow the fogs stay on anytime the fog switch is pulled and the key is on.

Clark

I did your fix 1st then did the blk/blu between the switches and the added wire from the switch to the keyed fuses.... see post 5 above.

It gave the Fog switch power with the key on vs. with the HL switch on. That way you can run the fogs and nothing else. ANd they turn OFF with the key. Only doing what you suggest requires the HL switch to be pulled to at least the 1st notch. And I think the fogs stay on anytime the fog switch is pulled.

Clark

World member Demick has a good how to wire the fog lights a few different ways HERE , plus it goes into the wiring differences for the different model years.

He also was the first guy to do the Pilot light fog lights and the mounting bracket PDF HERE .

I'm on their website. Which version of their headlights do you have?

Can you post pics of the lights on and the pattern they throw? LED headlamps are something I want to do this winter.

Zach

Vintagecarleds model VC 3500 7

THese are the ones I bought. Blizzard and the vendor installed a set at okteenerfest.

Turn the lights on... pull the round relays, turn the lights off and go to work. They have a coupon. Can't remember what it is, might still be on the Okteenerfest site or post. But he did tell me it was good till after Xmas.

I found a picture of my problem. The carrier is 75-76. the arrow is pointing to the touch point. It can be ground off, or buy a -75 carrier. The vendor helped me a bit. He noticed the adjustment screw was part of the issue. But even when adjusted to the midpoint the bulb still hit the bracket.
Click to view attachment

I had tried to take some pix, but they never really came out good enough to show anything.