any tricks to replacing the rear shocks? anything I should watch for?

I'm pulling the KYBs and putting on Bils this weekend... are pre-loaded springs better than the shorter ones?

A fairly easy job, need a spring compressor. My Bilsteins had 5 slots to adjust the height. I put mine on 3rd slot from the bottom, which was very low. Shop that did my alignment moved it up 1 notch.

The lower bolts are a bit tricky if you have a sway bar, but job should take a couple hours.

Don't just remove that nut off the top of the shock in the trunk and let the trailing arm drop. You need to put a jack or block up the trailing arm before you remove the nut. That trailing arm is heavy.

Paul

cool, I looked it over, looked easy, I have a compresser, and an air ratchet to tighten... just didn't want anything sneaking up on me


I have short 100-120lb springs and stock 100lb springs, the short springs won't preload except at the TOP bilstien setting... should I use the stock ones, or the shorter ones? and should the short ones be on the top setting?

QUOTE (URY914 @ Jul 1 2005, 11:58 AM)

Don't just remove that nut off the top of the shock in the trunk and let the trailing arm drop. You need to put a jack or block up the trailing arm before you remove the nut. That trailing arm is heavy. Paul

glad you reminded me, I can see my dumb-ass forgetting that.! thanks!!

Feeding the bolt through the trailing arm can be tricky be careful not to mash the threads.

Use a jack under the arms to lift and then feed the bolt thru....consider putting on some D rings for tie downs if you ever trailer it....

Jack up the back, put a jackstand under the trailing arm... give it a couple inches of clearance so the shock/spring assembly will come out... Take off the nut on the bottom of the shock, use an impact wrench to take the one off the top... use a mallet or such to get the bottom bolt out of the way.. and bingo! all done.

ya.. you'll need a spring compressor.. and you'll hate it...

QUOTE (Manfred Z @ Jul 1 2005, 12:27 PM)

Use a jack under the arms to lift and then feed the bolt thru....consider putting on some D rings for tie downs if you ever trailer it....

I got some of them here if you want. Just let me know Larry

Took me ~1 hr to change my OEM's today to same setup you bought

I have Hyper coil coil overs with #125

Went easy. set ride hight

Billstiens rock

QUOTE (spare time toys @ Jul 1 2005, 01:16 PM)

QUOTE (Manfred Z @ Jul 1 2005, 12:27 PM) Use a jack under the arms to lift and then feed the bolt thru....consider putting on some D rings for tie downs if you ever trailer it.... I got some of them here if you want. Just let me know Larry

cool, that's a great idea, I'll send you a pm Larry! thanks.


if I do not use pre-load springs how do you keep them lined up on the top "perch"?

zip ties.. tie the springs to the plates.

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jul 1 2005, 02:31 PM)

zip ties.. tie the springs to the plates.

and just leave them? or what?

Yup.. zip tie the top of the spring to the plate... You could do the bottom one's as well.. but I bet they'd break.

Keeps things in line... ie extra protection.

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Jul 1 2005, 11:37 AM)

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jul 1 2005, 02:31 PM) zip ties.. tie the springs to the plates. and just leave them? or what?

Of course! It's not like there are any serious loads in that direction that you need to worry about.

I have Koni's with the adjustable threaded collar, and with the car jacked off the ground, the bottom of the coil is a couple inches above the saddle. Once the car is back on the ground, no worries...

-Josh2

I get the D rings from larry in a bit, but they will have to wait to be installed... because the rear shocks are DONE!! it took me longer to load the new springs onto the shocks than it did to swap the shocks... the only pain was removing the brake and rotor to get to the bottom bolt. took about 2 hours for everything... not counting the time spent with the guy down the way... he used to have 914s and 911s that he auto-x'd with but is now working on a Triumph TR-6... sweet ride, and a great guy!


oh, if anyone needs some KYBs with good springs, lmk... these springs are weltmeister and still have the printing on them... I think they are only 100# springs though...

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Jul 2 2005, 01:12 PM)

I get the D rings from larry in a bit, but they will have to wait to be installed... because the rear shocks are DONE!! it took me longer to load the new springs onto the shocks than it did to swap the shocks... the only pain was removing the brake and rotor to get to the bottom bolt. took about 2 hours for everything... not counting the time spent with the guy down the way...

Removing brake and rotor for access to the bottom bolt? Uhhh, do you have some radical custom suspension or something?

-L

you don't have to do anything to hold the spring in, if you don't mind a little spirited driving to pop them back in after you lower the car.


M

QUOTE (Lawrence @ Jul 2 2005, 02:23 PM)

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Jul 2 2005, 01:12 PM) I get the D rings from larry in a bit, but they will have to wait to be installed... because the rear shocks are DONE!! it took me longer to load the new springs onto the shocks than it did to swap the shocks... the only pain was removing the brake and rotor to get to the bottom bolt. took about 2 hours for everything... not counting the time spent with the guy down the way... Removing brake and rotor for access to the bottom bolt? Uhhh, do you have some radical custom suspension or something? -L

I didn't have the right size wrench, so, I was able to get to it with a socket, but only after removing the rotor... but I thought about turning the bolt around to where the nut would be on the inside... easier to get to the next time... are they supposed to be that way to begin with?

Shheeesh....I used a crescenthammer....

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Jul 2 2005, 03:10 PM)

I didn't have the right size wrench, so, I was able to get to it with a socket, but only after removing the rotor... but I thought about turning the bolt around to where the nut would be on the inside... easier to get to the next time... are they supposed to be that way to begin with?

Yeah, the nut is on the outside, but I used an crescent wrench. The nut needs to be on the outside. On cars with a rear sway bar, the drop link connects to a ball on the end of that bolt.

-L

I just reach into my toolbox and grab the right sized open end wrench......



Then I beat it with a hammer to loosen the bolt.

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jul 2 2005, 03:33 PM)

I just reach into my toolbox and grab the right sized open end wrench......

That's cause you're an elitist geek... who would never deign to use a crescent wrench.

Actually a cresent wrench is my favorite tool........

yea, with my brilliant organization skillz and complete abundance of space in my 1 car apt. garage(can't open either door 100% without hitting a wall)... I couldn't find my big crecent, and it was faster to pull the rotor than look for it...


but at least I have an ASSLOAD of parts that are ready to be put on when the time come(seats, door panels, the engine and tranny are still out waiting on parts, an extra engine(1.8 that appears to have blown more oil than a hooker on the Exxon Valdez, that will be my practice rebuild), upper and lower dash, all 4 wheels... you get the picture, my garage is a fuckin' wreck!

despite all that, it was an easy job!

here lately it seems like I can't get anything done... I take 1 step forward, and find 2 other project that have to be done before I'm road worthy... it's good to say "weel, that's behind me" even if it was a small chore...

thanks!

you'll still have enough room for those little metal tabs. they should be there tues.

k

QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Jul 2 2005, 06:23 PM)

you'll still have enough room for those little metal tabs. they should be there tues. k

thanks!! that's one of the things I need before the engine goes back in... the real hold out is dowel pins for the flywheel(from HPH) and the little t/o arm bushing(pelican) is what's keeping the engine and tranny out... I already have my new tranny mounts from paragon...


once I get these parts, I can get the tranny and engine back together, and back into the car... after that I still need to find some sheet metal to weld up the rust spots and weld them in, then I can paint the floor pan, put the new cables and pedal assembly in, and then put the interior pieces in... which will free up a LOT if space... then I just need to do the front suspension(shocks, ball joints, and tie rods(which I guess I'll have to break down and have a shop do, so they can align them at the same time...