What to use on the engine compartment and inside floors?If ya POR you should paint after but with the line x its done ,anyone know the diff besides cost in products/

One is not a substitute for the other. POR is effectively a sealer, but needs a top-coat. Line-X is a tough top-coat, but doesn't seal nearly as well as POR does. I'd not paint the engine bay with Line-X, personally. Engine bays should be body color, or a bright color (helps to see stuff). That's just me, though.

por-15 is for rust prevention... line-x has no place in a 914 IMHO... what makes me think that? the DAPO of my car did the trunks in a bedliner of some sort... and doesn't look right...

Thanks for the feed back thats why ya Wonder out loud

POR 15 is great stuff if you make sure you've welded up everything you need to first. I've cleaned and painted the entire underbody and in the process of painting the drivers compartment. The problem with POR 15 is that it is not resistant to UV light. POR 15 makes a primer that can be sprayed onto cured POR 15 to allow the topcoat of most paints. The guys at POR 15 are geat help and anytime I've ordered I've recieved product the next day.[They are in NJ and I in CT] Call1-800-457-6715 or go to www.por15.com. good luck

Use the latex gloves that come with the por-15 kit. Made the mistake last week thinking I could use paint thinner or acetone to clean up afterwards. It took about 5 days to wear off my hands.

I've used POR-15 but have mostly switched to ZeroRust.

• It's an aerosol so it goes on easier
  
• It seems to stick to bare metal like paint should, whereas POR-15 can flake off if the surface doesn't have enough bite
  
• It doesn't need a top coat but it will accept one without the special tie-coat primer
  
• UV exposure doesn't matter
  
• I like how it looks, the black is like trim black, not flat, not gloss
  

Now having said all this the only environmental testing I've done is on my car which has mostly sat in my garage for over a year unfinished. I think POR-15 is probably a tuffer coating if the metal has enough texture to it.

Just my observations, it's not like I own stock in the company, just presenting an alternative.

Line-X is pretty heavy too.

I switched to ZeroRust on my control arm kits for all the same reasons listed above.

For my engine compartment and trunks I'm thinking of using the POR-15 "Brite-White". Going for that race-car styling on my... uhhhhhhhh race car.

I'll have to check out Zero-Rust. That stuff sounds cool.

You don't *have* to top-coat POR-15, though. That said, it will discolor under sunlight. So for places like underbody, the passenger floorboards, etc... it's still a good product.

I've experienced the stuff flaking off if there wasn't enough for it to bite into. That's the only drawback I've found to POR-15.

-L

BTW,,,,I have a bunch of never opened POR 15 products...interested?

QUOTE (Manfred Z @ Jul 2 2005, 11:44 AM)

BTW,,,,I have a bunch of never opened POR 15 products...interested?

How old are they? They don't have an infinite shelf life. I opened a tin I bought 5 years before recently, and all I found was a lump of rock hard goo.

Shaken not stirred....still gud....

Those complaining about POR-15 flaking off: did you use the surface cleaner and the metal etching solution before applying?

I switched to Zerorust also, really like working with it.

ok, I'll try anything once... where can you get it, and how much is it per can? how much coverage does one can give... Rust encapsulator comes in a spray can too, but doesn't cover very well... the can/brush method does cover very well though, I'm told...

ZeroRust is available from several online places. I have been getting my zerorust from http://www.autobodystore.com

They did a cool trial with ZeroRust and POR15 on a deep sea fishing boat. 1 year later ZeroRust part looked great, POR15 side not so good. Part was a rusty mess before treatment.

Cost is on the site, I think it is around $8 a can or something. One can goes a ways.

I think Zerorust has a site too,

ZeroRust Site

Oh, coverage is pretty good, certainly not a problem. Here is some pics of my car with it., single coats, after treatment with Rass-O-Nil, a conversion acid, like metal prep, but doesn't have to be rinsed off.

QUOTE (racejoe @ Jul 3 2005, 09:03 AM)

Oh, coverage is pretty good, certainly not a problem. Here is some pics of my car with it., single coats, after treatment with Rass-O-Nil, a conversion acid, like metal prep, but doesn't have to be rinsed off.

Can you tell me a little about this Rass-O-Nil? I'm working in a place where rinsing the car out is problematic. Thanks.

Ras-O-Nil is a product that doesn't appear to be available under that name anymore. All the links now refer to a Picklex product, might be the same thing or similar. They sell it at the same place

Autobody Store

Picklex info is here

Picklex Info

Here is a direct link to the Picklex stuff

http://www.autobodystore.com/r-o-n.htm

Another brand worth looking at is Rust Bullet, I used it on my car and was very happy with the results.