Could someone point me in the direction of what to do to set up the lingage for the shifter correctly on a 901 sideshifter.

I have done 911 / 915's before but can not seem to get his one.

I put in Welt, short shift kit and and I know prior to buying the car the shop had installed new clutch. The problem has plegged me since.

I shift coupling just under shifter over and I get R and 1, but no 4/5, then I get 4/5 but no 1st/R.

Is there an adjustment at the second lingage tube, or at the trans coupling?

Dougcoup711@yahoo.com

Have you replaced all of the shift bushings in the linkage?

My linkage behaved the same way. I replaced all the shift bushings and now it almost feels like it is gated.

Amazingly, thats all there is to work with. There is a spot twixt those two extreemes where you'll get all of 'em. BUT, there is a bushing back at the firewall in the engine compartment that crumbles away. After I replaced the linkage bushings at the transaxle end, the one at the firewall disintegrated, so similarly, the stresses of your new shift kit may be all it could take. Does the shifter rock really freely back and fourth in neutral- like there is no connection there?

in tailshifters (and maybe sideshifters too, but i've never worked with one...) there's a cone screw in the linkage at the coupler - just forward of the firewall under the adjustment access cover between the seats. if that cone screw gets loose, it will adversely affect your ability to get into different gear pair planes. (you didn't mention your car's year nor transmission type..)

be careful - they can rust in place (or been loctited by PO's trying too hard to fix a loose screw) and be quite hard to replace. they're inhex (Allen...) screws and the head will strip if you give it half a chance. if it's -very- loose, get it snug, but it would probably be good to have a spare. order one at the same time you get all the plastic bushings - they're not expensive...

in tailshifters, there's a bushing way at the back that requires you to remove a roll pin to remove the selector finger. that job tends to get deferred because it's sometimes a PITA, but i've done it between DE practice sessions, so it doesn't have to be horrible.

Besides, the pinch under the shifter and the bushings....

Make sure the 2 cone screws in the rod from the fire wall to the trans are tight.

get the car into second/third. Put it up in third and loosen the bolt on the shifter to the linkage. Let the bar rotate back into position then make sure its all the way back on the rod and tighten. If its say, in first when you adjust the linkage, itll always be off....happend to me on my welt kit.

Goto my home page....

If you just cannot adjust the shifter so you get all six gears, you should pull the carpeting over the center tunnel and look in there with a flashlight and a mirror or two. Check to see if the clutch cable tube is moving when you push the pedal; if so it has broken loose from the inside of the tunnel and can interfere with the movement of the bottom of the gear shift lever.

--DD

(we need a excuse me with a tap smily...i'll show you all sometime what i mean)


What kind of repair does the clutch tube repair entail?

Where to start. Okay, at some point of time, my 71 was updated with a side shifter transaxle, shifter etc. Everything worked fine with the 4 cylinder. When I installed the V8, I had to extend the bar by 1.25". I made sure that the bar remained in its original alignment. When I remounted the bar, and tried to go through the gears, 1st and reverse (shift lever moved to the left, then up or down), causes the shifter bar to hit the engine crossmember (Renegade Hybrids crossmember).

Can an adjustment be made on the shifter end where the shifter bolts to the rod in the tunnel? Are there specific instructions anywhere on how to perform this adjustment?

Look at the link in my signature to the 31 pages of notes, see the section on shift adjustment.

If you continue to have problems let me know, I am just south of you in Batavia IL

You would be hard pressed to find more experienced help than Glenn

I'm sure you are right... although it seems that Glenn responded to a reply from 2005!

Anyway, thanks so much for your PDF on transaxles! Between making adjustments at the pinch bolt and flattening the shifter bar where it hit the engine crossmember, everything seems to be working correctly. I guess the true test will be when I finally get the beast on the road!

Thanks again!

OOOOOPPS