alright when i did the clutch cable thing, i pulled the slack out of the cable (IE pulled it all the way out till the pedal was all the way up) and tightened it down

question is how much lee-way do i have in the cable from the clutch engaging almost when the pedal is very near the "fully pushed-in" position, to the point when the clutch is slipping whenever driving.

I like to set my pedal so it must be depressed about 3/4" before it does *something*.

works for me.

KT

I too set my cable adjustment to release/engage at 1/2 to 3/4 of pedal travel. I also make sure the outer cable barrel is seated solidly over the clutch tube where it enters the tunnel area. I also make sure to use two nuts to lock it.

how far is the threaded portion behind the nut....i'm almost through all of the threaded portion....is it something where a small turn of that nut makes a big difference, or will i need a new cable?

i had to space my cable. Mine goes about two inches before you can feel it start to get tight then disengage the clutch..then about three or so inches left at the bottom. sound like you may need to loosen a tad.

huh? I thought the pedal went the other way and defaulted to the pedal being on the floor....loosening that would only make it even more diffucult to engage.

Loosen everything up, run the nut back down on the cable until it just makes contact with the arm and the pedal is up, get someone under the car to tighten as you check the pedal for 1- dis-engagement and 2- freeplay (1/2 to 1") If the nut is ovetightend which it sounds like it is now, your clutch will be dis-engaged without pushing the pedal down.

no the clutch wont dis-engage until the pedal is to the floorboard.....

When you depress the pedal and reach the end of the freeplay you start to feel tension correct?? Correct! That tension is the cable pulling on the arm at the other end, Correct?? Correct! That arm in turn applies pressure to the center of the pressure plate via the t-out bearing .Correct?? Corect! As the fingers on the pressure plate are flexed the clutch DIS-ENGAGES from the flywheel. Correct?? Correct! Ergo when you press on the pedal you begin to dis-engage the clutch. Got it???? If in fact yours does not dis-engage until fully depressed then you either need to tighten the cable more or replace the cable, or the pressure plate (or pull the engine and recheck the torque on the plate)

you should tighten the adjusting nut almost all the way on the end of the cable that attaches to the clutch pedal. Then you should have enough threads on the clutch end.

the pedal end of the cable adj is detailed nicely in your haynes. the throwout arm should not hit the bellhousing. adj the tranny end of the cable so the gears don't grind and the clutch doesn't slip.

k

will the cable stretch over a small period of time, or is it gradual?

it should not stretch. That has only occured to me when cablews were unraveling at on end or the other. It really should not have to be readjudted for a long time (from clutch wear) unless it is breaking...

assuming the PP was torqued down, how much cable do you have left to screw in/out....i have less than 1/2 inch

ya think its the roll pin breaking off.....?

cables will stretch, but before they break they stretch alot in a short period of time. If your pedal is on the floor and its tightened up, you prob. need to space-put a couple nuts or spacers between the arm and the adjustment nut. I had to do this and supposedly its common. I spaced the pivot ball last time i had the trans out, took out some of this slack. Pedal should be all the way up, when you push it down it should go a few inches then you should feel pressure of the clutch pressure plate. About 3/4 down it should become loose again before going to the floor. IF its tight at the very top..loosen. If its tight down at the bottom, tighten.

see i have a bit of a squeak, kinda like bearing sound.....but not from center tunnel doesnt sound like.

you may have that. Could be cable, could be the pivot, could just be the clutch pedal, try some lube!

Is your clutch tube in the center tunnel still welded down in all three places or is it loose...?

i dont know how to check. If its the clutch tube giving up the ghost that would explain my problem.

Put an inspection mirror in each of the two access ports of the center tunnel and follow the clutch cable. The guide tube should not move when the cltuch pedal is moved. Very simple.

okay. thanks. i'll try that. I remember that a simple welding job fixed the problem too.